After leaving Amsterdam, which we absolutely loved—well, we definitely loved the cheese!—we headed south to Brussels. It was a short train ride, and before long we had arrived at our apartment just a block from the famous Grand Place.
Once we got settled, we let Kiya take a well-earned nap while Mom rested. Since she was sleeping peacefully, I took about an hour to wander through the surrounding neighborhoods on my own. Brussels is a city that invites you to get wonderfully lost. The streets are narrow and packed tightly together, with every block lined by cafés, restaurants, chocolate shops, boutiques, and little alleyways that seem to hide even more treasures. Everywhere I turned there was another beautiful building or another shop calling me inside.
When Kiya woke up, we headed out for dinner, only to discover the apartment elevator had stopped working. Unfortunately, we were staying four flights up. We immediately contacted our host and hoped it would be repaired quickly.
Fortunately, getting Kiya downstairs wasn’t too difficult. Getting her back up those four flights afterward would have been another story entirely.
Mom walked to a restaurant just up the street and explained our predicament. She told them our granddaughter was essentially stranded because of the broken elevator. They couldn’t have been kinder. They prepared our meals to go and, while chatting with Mom, shared one of the best recommendations of our stay—they told us that the Royal Palace was open to visitors.
That evening we also wandered through the Grand Place. I had seen countless photographs before arriving, but nothing compares to standing there in person. Dating back to the 11th century, the Grand Place has been the heart of Brussels for nearly a thousand years and is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is surrounded by magnificent guildhalls whose richly decorated facades are covered in gold leaf, sculptures, and elaborate carvings. The Gothic Town Hall, with its soaring spire, dominates one side of the square, while the King’s House (Maison du Roi) stands opposite. As the evening light reflected off the gold detailing, the entire square seemed to glow. It is easily one of the most beautiful city squares we have visited anywhere in Europe.
The elevator, however, still wasn’t fixed when we returned to the apartment.
The next morning we took an Uber to the Royal Palace of Brussels. Each summer, after Belgium’s King and Queen leave for their summer residence, the palace opens its doors to the public for several weeks. Although it remains the King’s official administrative residence and is used for state ceremonies and official receptions, the royal family does not actually live there.
Walking through the palace was almost beyond comprehension.
Room after room revealed soaring ceilings, enormous crystal chandeliers, elaborate fireplaces, priceless paintings, intricate tapestries, and beautifully set dining tables. Every room seemed grander than the last. One of the most fascinating spaces was the Hall of Mirrors, whose ceiling was decorated with thousands of shimmering jewel beetle wing cases, creating an iridescent work of art unlike anything we had ever seen.
Because Kiya uses a transport chair, we were able to access areas of the palace that required using a lift. The staff could not have been more gracious, patiently guiding us through the accessible routes and making sure we were able to enjoy as much of the palace as possible. Their kindness made the visit even more memorable.
After spending several hours exploring the palace, we returned to the Grand Place. Along the way we noticed people being driven around the city in small electric sightseeing cars. It looked like so much fun that we tracked them down and booked a ride ourselves. It turned out to be one of the best ways to see Brussels. We cruised through neighborhoods we might never have found on foot while learning interesting bits of history from our driver.
Back on foot, we spent the rest of the afternoon doing what Brussels does best—chocolate tasting! If Amsterdam had been all about cheese, Brussels was all about chocolate. Nearly every chocolate shop welcomed visitors with generous samples, making it nearly impossible to walk past without stopping. We happily accepted the challenge, tasting pralines, truffles, dark chocolate, milk chocolate, and several Belgian specialties before picking out a few favorites to bring home.
We wandered through the shopping districts, browsed boutiques, and discovered another little cultural difference. In many of the shops, especially those selling scarves, jewelry, and accessories, the items on display are simply samples. When you decide what you’d like to purchase, the shopkeeper retrieves a brand-new one from storage rather than handing you the display item. It was a shopping experience we hadn’t encountered before.
We finished the day with dinner at a wonderful Greek restaurant before taking one last stroll through the neighborhoods surrounding the Grand Place. Brussels is an incredibly compact city, making it easy to explore on foot. I’ll include an aerial photo because it’s the best way to appreciate just how closely everything is woven together. Street after street is filled with beautiful architecture, inviting shops, cafés, and hidden courtyards just waiting to be explored.
Looking back, we probably could have spent another day or two in Brussels. We certainly packed every minute full, but there was still so much left to see. That evening we returned to the apartment, repacked the few bags we had opened, and prepared for our next destination—Paris.
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