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One Last Wander Through Lisboa

We decided to take it easy on our final day in Lisboa.

After seven weeks of traveling, sightseeing, walking, trains, planes, taxis, and more cobblestones than I ever need to see again, no one was in a hurry. We let Kiya sleep until 11:00 and enjoyed a slow morning at the apartment.

Once everyone was awake and ready, we headed out to revisit a few shops we’d discovered a couple of days earlier. There were several things that had intrigued us, and this was our last chance to go back and get them.

I had one particular mission.

I wanted to find a little cloth Portuguese rooster keychain. They are so cute and colorful, and every time I see one, it reminds me of Heihei, the crazy chicken from the movie Moana.

The Rooster of Barcelos is everywhere in Portugal. According to legend, a man wrongly accused of a crime declared that a roasted rooster would crow to prove his innocence—and it did. The colorful rooster eventually became a Portuguese symbol of good luck, honesty, justice, and faith. Today you can find versions of him on just about everything.

And speaking of finding something on everything…

Sardines.

Lisboa loves its sardines.

You can find sardine shirts, jewelry, bags, artwork, souvenirs, and, of course, actual sardines packaged in some of the most beautiful tins I’ve ever seen.

We returned to a sardine shop we’d visited earlier in our stay. When we left the first time, I had told the woman working there that we’d be back.

As soon as I walked through the door, she recognized me.

“You did come back!”

I did!

I bought a pair of sardine earrings, and I couldn’t resist bringing home one of the beautifully designed tins. The artwork is so colorful and detailed that the tin itself feels like a souvenir.

From there, we wandered through several more shops and eventually made our way onto one of the busier boulevards.

Suddenly there were people everywhere.

It honestly felt like a cruise ship had pulled into port and unloaded every passenger at once. After several days of relatively easy wandering, we suddenly found ourselves surrounded by crowds.

We escaped down a little side street and accidentally stumbled upon an open-air market.

Those unexpected finds have been some of my favorite parts of this trip.

One vendor was selling handmade aluminum jewelry, and naturally we had to stop. We ended up buying rings, earrings, and a necklace.

As you already know, Kiya has fallen in love with her fabulous orange, diamond-studded sunglasses. Mom had been searching for an eyeglass strap for her, and today she finally found one.

Even better—it matched Kiya’s sunglasses.

Perfect.

There was also one food stop we knew we had to repeat.

Earlier in our stay we’d discovered a café serving a delicious fruit bowl in orange juice and honey. It had been so good that we made a point of going back.

It was just as yummy the second time.

Then we had another important repeat destination—the Time Out Market.

There was really only one reason we needed to go back.

Those pork al pastor tacos.

We’d been thinking about them since we ate there the first time, so we ordered another round.

Yep.

Just as yummy the second time too.

After lunch, we slowly wandered back toward the apartment. There was no need to squeeze in another attraction or race across the city. We had seen so much of Lisboa over the past several days, and it felt good to simply enjoy one final walk through the streets.

Then came the familiar ritual we’ve repeated over and over during this trip.

Packing.

Once again, we spread everything out and began figuring out how to fit our clothes, souvenirs, scarves, earrings, artwork, and all the other little treasures we’ve collected into our suitcases.

This time, though, something was different.

When I packed for this seven-week adventure, one of my biggest worries was making sure we had enough of Kiya’s prescription formula, medications, pull-ups, wipes, and medical supplies. Running out of something she needed while we were traveling through Europe wasn’t an option, so I intentionally overpacked.

And I definitely overpacked the formula and pull-ups.

Some of those will be staying behind in Lisboa. I’m going to contact the apartment manager and see if they can be donated to a care center or another organization that can put them to good use rather than throwing them away.

Looking at what remains, though, I feel pretty good about my planning.

I packed almost exactly the right amount of medication and wipes for seven weeks of travel. Considering how much thought, calculating, weighing, and worrying went into those medical bags before we ever left Montana, that’s a pretty satisfying feeling.

Tomorrow morning our ride will arrive at 8:00 a.m. to take us to the airport.

We’ll fly from Lisboa back to Dublin, bringing us full circle to the city where our European adventure began seven weeks ago.

The suitcases are a little more battered.

They’re definitely filled with more souvenirs.

We’re a lot more tired.

And we have seven weeks’ worth of incredible memories packed in with everything else.

Tomorrow, we begin the journey toward home.

Seeing Lisbon from Top to Bottom

Yesterday we decided to give our legs a break and see Lisbon a different way.

Lisbon is beautiful, but those uneven cobblestone sidewalks and hills are no joke when you’re pushing Kiya in her transport chair. Mom’s knee also needed a chance to heal, so we decided to rent a quad and take a four-hour tour of the city.

When I made the reservation, I specifically chose the larger quad because it had more legroom and space in the back for Kiya’s transport chair.

We took a taxi to the 1908 Lisboa Hotel, where we met our guide, Andrew.

What a fun day we had with him!

For the next four hours, Andrew drove us all over Lisbon—from top to bottom and east to west. We traveled through tiny streets, climbed hills we definitely wouldn’t have wanted to walk, and visited places throughout the city that we otherwise might never have seen.

Andrew was an absolute joy to spend the day with.

From the beginning, he wanted to make things as easy as possible for us. Every time we stopped, he immediately jumped out, unloaded Kiya’s transport chair, and had it ready for her. When it was time to leave, he folded it up and loaded it again.

He also never rushed us. If we wanted to get out, explore an area, or take photos, he simply waited until we were ready.

During our four hours together, we learned quite a bit about each other. We told him about Montana and our lives back home, and he told us about his life in Portugal. He and his partner are expecting a baby in December, and he had recently graduated after studying contract law, tourism, and marketing.

One of our most important stops involved food, of course.

Andrew told us he knew the best place to try Portugal’s famous pastel de nata.

We had already sampled these little custard tarts, but these were on an entirely different level.

They arrived piping hot, with incredibly flaky pastry surrounding warm, rich, creamy custard.

Oh my goodness.

So yummy!

Pastéis de nata are one of Portugal’s most famous foods. Their history dates to the early 1800s and the monks of the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém. After Portugal’s religious orders were dissolved in the 1830s, the monastery’s custard-tart recipe was eventually sold to a nearby sugar refinery. In 1837, the famous Pastéis de Belém bakery began making them using a secret recipe that is still closely guarded today.

Andrew also gave us time to wander through a market filled with little shops, restaurants, and vendors before we continued our tour.

At some point we mentioned that we’d taken a taxi to meet him at the hotel but were actually staying right around the corner from Pink Street.

That changed everything.

Pink Street was already part of our tour, so Andrew modified his route and offered to drop us near our apartment instead of making us return all the way to the hotel.

Pink Street, officially Rua Nova do Carvalho, wasn’t always the colorful tourist attraction it is today. The Cais do Sodré neighborhood was once closely connected to Lisbon’s port and was filled with sailors, bars, gambling houses, and nightclubs. As the neighborhood was revitalized, the street was painted its now-famous bright pink in 2013. Today it’s packed with restaurants, bars, cafés, and nightlife—and happens to be practically around the corner from our apartment.

We decided to have Andrew drop us at the Time Out Market, which was just a short walk from where we were staying.

Time Out Market Lisboa occupies part of the historic Mercado da Ribeira, a market with roots going back to the 19th century. Today, one side remains a traditional market while the enormous food hall brings together restaurants and some of Lisbon’s best-known chefs and food vendors under one roof.

And it was packed!

We pushed our way through the throngs of people and eventually decided on Mexican food.

We ordered two frijoles tacos and two pork al pastor tacos.

They were so yummy.

After lunch, we wandered through an outdoor market nearby. Naturally, some shopping happened.

I found a dress and a pair of sardine earrings. Mom found two pairs of pants.

Then we walked back to the apartment and gave Kiya a couple of hours to rest.

For dinner, we decided we should actually eat on Pink Street since it was literally around the corner from us.

This time we tried another Portuguese favorite—piri-piri chicken. Piri-piri sauce is traditionally made with small hot peppers brought to Portugal through its connections with Africa, combined with ingredients such as garlic, oil, lemon, and spices. It has become one of the flavors most associated with Portuguese cooking.

Unfortunately, by the end of dinner, Kiya had reached her limit.

She had a seizure.

She has had a few seizures during our trip, but overall she has done exceptionally well considering everything we’ve asked of her over the past seven weeks. This one was harder than the others, and we knew immediately it was time to call it a night.

We asked the restaurant to box up our leftovers and added a dessert to take with us.

Then we headed straight back to the apartment so Kiya could get comfortable and relax in bed.

Later, Mom and I sampled the coffee cake we’d brought home.

It was absolutely delicious.

As an added bonus, we now had enough leftover dinner for our final night in Lisbon, which meant no cooking and no searching for another restaurant.

Our peaceful evening did come with one new development.

We apparently have new neighbors in the apartment above us.

And they are stompers.

Very enthusiastic stompers.

Evening stompers.

Early-morning stompers.

At least after seven weeks of trains, planes, taxis, heat waves, broken elevators, missing assistance, cobblestones, and everything else this adventure has thrown at us, a little stomping above our heads isn’t going to defeat us.

Another wonderful—and very full—day in Lisbon was complete.

Day 2 in Lisboa: Sunglasses, Sailing, and Sweet Pastries

We all slept in a bit this morning.

I think all of us needed it.

The air conditioning in our apartment is incredible. Poor Kiya about froze sleeping next to me! After weeks of battling heat waves across Europe, though, I wasn’t about to complain.

We took our time getting ready and headed out with no real agenda other than exploring the neighborhood around us. One of the things we’ve learned on this trip is that some of the best memories happen when you aren’t rushing from one attraction to the next.

Our apartment is just a short walk from the famous Pink Street, so we took advantage of the quiet morning before the crowds arrived to snap some photos. By later in the day, the street would be packed with people enjoying the cafés, restaurants, and nightlife, but early in the morning we almost had it to ourselves.

From there, we wandered in and out of little shops.

Kiya kept putting her hand in front of her eyes every time we stepped into the bright sunshine, so we decided it was time to find her a pair of sunglasses.

The first couple we tried on weren’t winners. She immediately dropped her head.

Then we found them.

Bright orange with little diamond accents.

She lifted her head, smiled, and never tried to take them off.

When we finished paying for the rest of our purchases, the shop owner smiled and said he wanted to give us a deal.

Then he handed Kiya the sunglasses for free.

Those little acts of kindness are something we’ll remember long after we’ve forgotten what we bought.

As we continued exploring, we noticed something that seemed to be everywhere—sardines and colorful roosters.

Portugal is famous for both. Sardines have been an important part of Portuguese life for centuries and are especially celebrated during Lisbon’s June festivals honoring Saint Anthony, when they’re grilled on nearly every street corner. Shops throughout the city sell beautifully decorated sardine tins that have become iconic souvenirs. The colorful rooster, known as the Rooster of Barcelos, is one of Portugal’s national symbols. According to legend, a rooster miraculously crowed to prove an innocent man had been wrongly accused, making it a symbol of honesty, faith, justice, and good luck.

We wandered into one of the sardine shops, and honestly, the artwork on the tins was almost too pretty to open. Each can looked like a tiny work of art. While browsing, we picked up a couple pairs of earrings and some anklets before continuing on our way.

By then Kiya was ready for lunch.

We stopped at a little café where we enjoyed fresh lemonade and a fruit bowl unlike any we’d had before. The fruit was served in fresh orange juice with a drizzle of honey over the top.

Simple.

Fresh.

Absolutely delicious.

From there we made our way to Praça do Comércio, one of Lisbon’s most famous squares. Once the site of Portugal’s royal palace before it was destroyed in the devastating 1755 earthquake, today the enormous plaza opens directly onto the Tagus River. At its center stands a grand equestrian statue of King José I, who led Portugal during the rebuilding of Lisbon after the earthquake.

Standing at the northern end of the square is the magnificent Rua Augusta Arch. Built to celebrate Lisbon’s reconstruction, the arch is decorated with sculptures representing Glory, Valor, and Genius, along with important figures from Portuguese history. Walking beneath it feels like stepping through a grand gateway into the heart of the city.

After stopping for another wonderful lunch, we made our way to the marina for our afternoon cruise along the Tagus River.

What a relaxing afternoon.

There weren’t very many people onboard, so everyone had plenty of room to spread out. We found seats on the upper deck where there was plenty of shade, open windows, and a wonderful breeze blowing off the water.

As we sailed down the river, we passed one famous landmark after another.

The 25 de Abril Bridge stretched across the Tagus, its bright red color often reminding visitors of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge. Opened in 1966, it connects Lisbon with the southern side of the river and has become one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks.

Next came the MAAT—the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology. Its modern flowing design almost looks like a wave rising out of the riverbank, beautifully contrasting with Lisbon’s historic buildings.

We cruised past the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, or Monument to the Discoveries, built to honor Portugal’s great Age of Exploration. Prince Henry the Navigator stands proudly at the front, followed by explorers, cartographers, missionaries, and other important figures who helped shape Portugal’s maritime history.

Nearby stood the elegant Belém Lighthouse, marking the entrance to one of Portugal’s most historic waterways.

Across the river we could see the towering Sanctuary of Christ the King. Inspired by Rio de Janeiro’s famous Christ the Redeemer statue, the monument overlooks Lisbon with outstretched arms and has become a symbol of peace and hope since its completion in 1959.

One of the most fascinating sights wasn’t a monument at all.

We watched an enormous cargo ship loaded high with shipping containers slowly make its way into port while several tugboats carefully maneuvered it into position. Watching those tiny boats control something so massive was impressive.

After returning to shore, we wandered back along the waterfront boardwalk, browsing the local artisan booths. We found several beautiful photographs that we thought would look perfect hanging on a wall back home, a wonderful reminder of our time in Portugal.

Before heading back to the apartment, we made one more stop at the bakery just around the corner.

Their version of pain aux raisins was absolutely delicious, so naturally we bought more.

While we were there, we couldn’t leave without picking up Portugal’s most famous pastry—the pastel de nata. These little custard tarts date back over 300 years to the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, where Catholic monks originally created them. Because the monks used large quantities of egg whites to starch their robes, they searched for ways to use up the leftover yolks. Their solution was a rich, creamy custard baked inside flaky pastry. The recipe eventually spread throughout Portugal and has become one of the country’s most beloved treats.

We also picked up a pizza for dinner before heading back to the apartment.

After another full day of wandering, exploring, cruising, eating, and discovering the charm of Lisbon, we were more than happy to relax in the wonderful air conditioning and call it a night.

Masterpieces, Caricatures, and Mom’s Madrid Birthday

With Madrid still full of excitement and celebration, we continued exploring the city. We woke up a little earlier, had yogurt for breakfast, loaded up, and headed out for another day of sightseeing.

It was definitely hot, but after La Grande-Motte, Madrid’s heat somehow felt a little more bearable!

We decided to spend the morning at the Museo Nacional del Prado, about a 20-minute walk from our apartment. Along the way, we passed beautiful fountains, government buildings, and impressive architecture.

Madrid is another one of those cities where you need to remember to look up because there is always something incredible above you.

Then we entered the Prado.

What a museum!

Founded in 1819, the Prado is considered one of the world’s great art museums and holds an extraordinary collection of European art, particularly Spanish masterpieces from artists such as Velázquez, Goya, and El Greco.

Some of the paintings were so realistic and three-dimensional that it felt like you could reach out and touch them and the people would suddenly come alive.

We spent hours wandering through room after room. Some of the ceilings seemed 20 feet high, yet there were paintings so enormous they nearly filled the walls from floor to ceiling. The scale of everything was incredible.

Photography wasn’t allowed in much of the museum, which was probably a good thing because otherwise I would have taken hundreds of pictures! Instead, we bought a book about the collection so we could remember the paintings and learn more about them later.

One work that really caught our attention was Juan de Flandes’ The Crucifixion. We also saw an incredible collection depicting dozens of Spanish cities and their monuments. It was fascinating to study the details and see how the cities and their landmarks were portrayed.

Another portrait that caught our attention was of Manuela Isidra Téllez-Girón, the future Duchess of Abrantes.

The Prado has done an amazing job preserving centuries of history through art. You aren’t simply looking at beautiful paintings. You’re looking at clothing, architecture, religion, landscapes, families, royalty, wars, celebrations, and everyday life preserved on canvas.

Gabe could have stayed there all day.

Eventually, though, we needed to move on. We had plans to return to the apartment, rest for a while, and then get ready for Mom’s birthday dinner.

On our walk back, Gabe decided he wanted a photo with one of the stone lions outside an important government building.

The police officers guarding the area made it very clear that this was not going to happen!

No picture with the lion for Gabe.

Once we returned to the apartment, Kiya crashed and Mom decided to give her knee a much-needed break. Gabe and I weren’t quite ready to sit still, so we headed back out for another stroll.

We ended up having our caricatures drawn.

What a fun experience! We laughed the entire time and now have another unique souvenir from our trip.

Gabe also found some vinyl records he wanted to bring home, while I continued my hunt for another silk scarf. I had bought one earlier in the trip and had been wearing it in my hair, but somewhere during our train travels it disappeared.

Thankfully, I found some replacements at a little shop near our apartment, along with, of course, some funky earrings.

Then it was time for the main event—Mom’s Madrid birthday dinner.

Our wonderful host, Angel, had given us several restaurant suggestions close to the apartment, but nothing had really caught our attention.

Then I found Bel Mondo.

The moment we saw pictures of the colorful, eclectic restaurant, we all agreed that was where we wanted to celebrate.

Unfortunately, I made a slight mistake with the reservation.

The information said you could have your table for one hour and 45 minutes. Somehow, I interpreted our reservation as starting at 6:00 p.m.

Nope.

It ended at 6:00 p.m.

Oops.

Thankfully, the staff couldn’t have been more gracious. They found us another table for 7:30, so we had some time to wander around the neighborhood.

We browsed a few stores and eventually found a coffee shop where we could sit, have a drink, and pass the time.

When we finally walked into Bel Mondo, we knew immediately that waiting had been worth it.

The restaurant was amazing.

The atmosphere was eclectic, eccentric, colorful, and absolutely beautiful. There were flowers, bold patterns, artwork, lights, and interesting decorations everywhere you looked. It felt less like walking into a restaurant and more like stepping onto a movie set.

For dinner, Mom ordered an enormous steak, Gabe chose sliced rib eye, and I had chicken.

Then I spotted something very important on the menu.

Moscato.

I ordered a bottle.

It was soooo good!

Gabe loved it too.

So naturally, we ordered another bottle.

By the time we finished dinner and dessert, the three of us had polished off two bottles of Moscato and were thoroughly enjoying Mom’s birthday celebration.

The staff made the evening even more special. They surprised Mom with a cheesecake topped with a candle and gathered around to sing “Happy Birthday” to her.

It was perfect.

After everything we had experienced together over the previous six weeks, celebrating Mom’s birthday in Madrid—with wonderful food, two bottles of wine, lots of laughter, and the people she loves—felt pretty special.

Eventually, after a wonderful birthday dinner, we headed back toward the apartment.

On our way, we stopped at the little corner store near where we were staying. Earlier in the day it had been closed, so I was excited to see it open again. I found some more beautiful silk scarves to replace the one I had lost—and maybe a few extras! Mom got into the shopping spirit too and picked out some gorgeous earrings to match some of the new outfits she had bought during our travels. I loved seeing her choose some fun pieces for herself.

It was the perfect little shopping stop to end Mom’s birthday celebration.

Then we headed back to the apartment for one final round of packing.

Our taxi was scheduled to arrive at 8:00 the next morning, and this time our little group would be splitting up.

Mom, Kiya, and I would fly to Lisbon for the final stop on our European adventure, while Gabe would begin his long journey home, flying to New York and eventually making his way back to Bellingham..

It had been wonderful having him join us for this part of the trip.

From swimming in the Mediterranean and wandering through Madrid to cooking us dinner, exploring museums, shopping for records, getting caricatures drawn, and celebrating Grandma’s birthday, we packed a lot of memories into our time together.

Now it was time for one more country.

Portugal, here we come.

Lisbon: One Forgotten Suitcase, One Missing Pillow, and Our Final Country

On to Lisbon!

We loaded up our mountain of luggage and were happily on our way to the Madrid airport when the phone rang.

We had left a suitcase behind.

And, of course, it wasn’t just any suitcase. It was Kiya’s.

Around we went in the taxi, back to the apartment, where we grabbed the forgotten suitcase, loaded it up, and started for the airport again. Our little detour put us about half an hour behind schedule.

Once we arrived at the airport and started unloading everything, we realized something else was missing.

Kiya’s brand-new pillow.

Seriously?

I quickly sent Angel a message to let him know we had left it behind. Once again, he proved what an amazing host he was. He was incredibly gracious and found a way to package the pillow up and mail it all the way back home for us.

Kiya doesn’t know it yet, but her new pillow will be waiting for her when we finally arrive home in Montana. After seven weeks of traveling, I think she is going to be very happy to walk into the house and discover that her pillow made its own journey home from Madrid!

Gabe stayed with us at the airport until it was time for us to head toward our boarding area. Then came the hard part—saying goodbye. He went off to find his own gate and wait for his flight back to the United States, while Mom, Kiya, and I hurried to find our gate for Lisbon.

We had already missed our priority boarding.

Earlier, we had specifically asked the young man at the check-in counter whether we needed to put any special tags on Kiya’s medical suitcases or her transport chair. He told us we were fine.

Apparently, we were not fine.

When we arrived at the gate, there was quite the hubbub over Kiya’s transport chair. No one seemed to know what to do because it hadn’t been marked that she needed the chair taken all the way to the plane.

So there we stood off to the side while practically the entire plane boarded without us.

Finally, an assistance supervisor arrived and escorted us down to the plane.

By this point, Kiya was sound asleep.

I picked her up and carried her down the aisle, trying not to whack anyone with Kiya, my purse, or my backpack as I maneuvered past all the already-seated passengers.

The crew decided her transport chair wouldn’t fit in the cabin and would need to be checked. We hefted her medical suitcases into the overhead bins, settled Kiya into her seat, and finally sat down ourselves.

We departed Madrid at 10:25 a.m.

We arrived in Lisbon at 10:41 a.m.

Now that’s a fast flight!

Of course, there is a one-hour time difference between Madrid and Lisbon, but seeing those times still made us laugh.

The flight itself was wonderfully uneventful, which was exactly what we needed.

We had arranged for a transfer to pick us up when we arrived in Lisbon—or at least we thought we had.

Before arriving, our apartment management company had contacted me about paying the required tourist tax. I had already made the payment through PayPal. Apparently, however, €2.56 had been deducted somewhere in the transaction, leaving our payment short.

Because of €2.56, they wouldn’t finish processing our apartment check-in.

They also hadn’t arranged our transfer.

So there I was at the Lisbon airport, on the phone with management for nearly 30 minutes, trying to figure out how a €2.56 shortage was keeping us from both our apartment and our ride.

At one point, it sounded as though they weren’t even going to allow us to stay because the tourist tax hadn’t been paid in full before our arrival.

I sent screenshots showing the payment I had already made, explained the situation over and over, and eventually paid the remaining €2.56.

Finally, everything was approved.

They arranged transportation to their management office, where we could store our luggage until the apartment was ready.

We quickly discovered something about Lisbon.

It has hills.

Lots and lots of hills.

And naturally, the management office was up one of them.

Once we dropped off our luggage, we decided the best thing to do was find somewhere to sit, eat, and regroup.

We found a cute brunch restaurant and ordered a meal that included an açaí bowl, mini caramel pancakes, and a ham-and-cheese sandwich.

Everything was delicious.

There was only one problem.

Both the açaí bowl and caramel pancakes came covered in coconut.

I do not like coconut.

Apparently, our waitress noticed me carefully picking every little piece of coconut off my food. Without me even asking, she brought over a little fruit pancake without coconut—on the house.

It was such a small act of kindness, but after the morning we’d had, it meant a lot.

After brunch, we wandered up and down the surrounding streets for a few blocks. Lisbon immediately felt different from Madrid. The streets were narrow, the buildings colorful, and there seemed to be something interesting around every corner.

Eventually, we decided we’d had enough wandering and would simply return to the management office and wait.

Wouldn’t you know it?

Just as we arrived, we were told our apartment was ready.

We ordered another ride and set off across Lisbon.

Driving through the city was an experience in itself. Some of the streets are unbelievably narrow, and we were in a fairly large vehicle. There were moments when I wasn’t entirely sure we were going to fit!

Eventually we arrived, figured out all the door codes, and stepped inside.

What a relief.

The apartment was lovely, spacious, comfortable, and—most importantly—cool!

We were only about two blocks from the Tagus River and very close to the Time Out Market and several historic areas of Lisbon. It was going to be a wonderful location for exploring our final city.

The temperature change was also amazing. We had left Madrid at around 102°F and arrived in Lisbon to temperatures around 78°F.

What a difference!

We spent some time unpacking, figuring out the apartment, and simply relaxing.

Eventually we ventured back outside to explore the neighborhood, find somewhere for dinner, and pick up groceries.

Right on our corner we discovered a wonderful little bakery, so naturally we stopped and bought breakfast for the next morning.

Then we found a Mexican restaurant for dinner, picked up a few groceries, and headed back to the apartment for the night.

And can I just say how wonderful our beds felt?

In Madrid, Gabe and I each had extremely narrow single beds. They were the kind where you picked one sleeping position and stayed there all night because rolling over came with the very real possibility of landing on the floor.

Now I could actually spread out!

Kiya was also happily reunited with Mom for sleeping arrangements. She had slept with Mary in Madrid and wasn’t particularly thrilled about the arrangement, but she suffered through it.

LOL.

After a forgotten suitcase, a missing pillow, airport confusion, wheelchair drama, a €2.56 tourist-tax crisis, and hauling our belongings through yet another city, we were finally settled into Lisbon.

Our last first country.

Our last first city.

The final chapter of our seven-week European adventure had officially begun.

One Last Day on the Mediterranean

Knowing it would be our last full day in La Grande-Motte, we decided to head to the beach a little earlier before the afternoon heat became overwhelming.

The waves and uneven sand had made Mom’s knee more sore over the previous couple of days, so we agreed to take things a little easier. Instead of returning to the deeper bay, we went back to the wonderfully shallow beach where the water stretched far from shore.

It turned out to be the perfect choice.

Kiya settled happily into her beach chair with the gentle waves washing over her legs, completely content to splash, play, and enjoy the Mediterranean. Watching her smile was all any of us needed.

I spent much of the morning simply floating in the sea.

One thing that surprised me was just how salty the Mediterranean was. The water made you incredibly buoyant, and it felt almost effortless to float with the gentle rhythm of the waves. It was peaceful, relaxing, and exactly what I needed after weeks of constant sightseeing.

Gabe, however, had reached his limit with sand.

Fine Mediterranean sand has an amazing ability to get absolutely everywhere, and after several beach days he decided he’d had enough. While we relaxed by the water, he set off to explore town, browse the shops, and pick up a few souvenirs to take home.

Eventually the midday sun reminded us it was time to head back.

The heat along the Mediterranean was relentless. Even sitting under the beach umbrella, we could feel the sun draining our energy. We became diligent about applying sunscreen throughout the day, especially for Kiya, making sure she stayed protected from the intense southern French sunshine.

Back at the apartment it was the now-familiar routine: shake as much sand off as possible, head straight for the shower, rinse out swimsuits, and enjoy a little time in the wonderfully cool air conditioning while escaping the hottest part of the afternoon.

That evening we enjoyed one last dinner together before returning to the apartment to pack our suitcases.

Our wonderful driver would be picking us up the next morning to take us to the train station, and another chapter of our European adventure would begin.

Looking back, La Grande-Motte was exactly what we needed.

After weeks of museums, castles, trains, and miles upon miles of walking, it offered us a chance to slow down. We traded sightseeing for sunshine, beaches, and long evenings along the boardwalk. It was peaceful, relaxed, and refreshingly different from the larger cities we had visited.

The Mediterranean sun was certainly exhausting—far more intense than we had expected—but the slower pace, beautiful beaches, warm sea, and precious time spent together made it the perfect place to catch our breath before continuing on to the final leg of our journey.

Madrid: Cathedrals, Markets, and an Early Birthday Celebration

The next leg of our journey took us from southern France into Spain. Our driver picked us up. We were crammed into the taxi. We had the biggest one we could order.

We boarded the train in Montpellier and traveled first to Barcelona before connecting to Madrid. Both train rides were relaxing, comfortable, and gave us time to simply enjoy the changing scenery.

By this point in the trip, train travel had become one of Kiya’s favorite ways to get around. She can stretch out, relax, and enjoy the ride without worrying about being squeezed into the backseat of a car. As we’ve learned throughout Europe, taxi drivers come in all varieties—some are incredibly friendly, some seem a little grumpy, and a few make you question every life choice that led you to getting into their car!

When we arrived in Madrid, our Uber brought us to our apartment where our host, Angel, was waiting to greet us.

What a wonderful welcome.

Angel gave us a complete tour of the apartment, explained how the keys worked, showed us the air conditioning, answered all of our questions, and even left us a bottle of Spanish wine waiting on the table. After several less-than-perfect accommodations earlier in the trip, it felt wonderful to walk into another fantastic VRBO.

Once we settled in, we headed to a nearby grocery store to stock up on a few essentials. That evening Gabe treated us to another one of his wonderful home-cooked meals—a delicious pasta dinner that we enjoyed together while catching up on the day’s adventures.

The following morning we set out to explore Madrid.

Our first stop was the magnificent Almudena Cathedral, located directly across from the Royal Palace. Unlike many of Europe’s medieval cathedrals, Almudena is relatively young. Construction began in the late 1800s and wasn’t completed until 1993, when Pope John Paul II consecrated it, making it the only Spanish cathedral ever consecrated by a pope. Its beautiful blend of neoclassical, neo-Gothic, and modern architectural styles makes it unlike any other cathedral we visited.

Stepping inside was breathtaking.

The soaring ceilings, intricate carvings, colorful stained-glass windows, detailed sculptures, painted domes, and beautifully decorated chapels all drew our attention in different directions. Every corner seemed to reveal another incredible work of art. Standing there, I couldn’t help but wonder how many skilled craftsmen spent years—perhaps even decades—creating such beauty by hand.

We wandered quietly through the cathedral, taking time not only to admire the artwork but also to reflect on how incredibly fortunate we were. Moments like these make you pause and realize just how amazing life can be when you have the opportunity to experience places you once only dreamed of visiting.

As we walked back outside, Mom spotted the cutest little yellow open-air sightseeing car.

Naturally, we had to ride in it.

For the next half hour our driver took us through the streets of Madrid, pointing out historic buildings, lively plazas, and hidden corners of the city that we probably would have missed on foot. It was such a fun way to get our bearings while giving our feet a little break.

Next, we made our way to the famous Mercado de San Miguel.

If you’re ever in Madrid, go hungry.

Originally opened in 1916, the market is one of Madrid’s most beloved culinary destinations. Inside, dozens of vendors serve everything from fresh seafood and Iberian ham to tapas, cheeses, pastries, fruit, and desserts. The energy inside is contagious, with people sampling small plates from one stand before wandering to the next.

We certainly did our part.

Gabe convinced me to try pot stickers, and they were absolutely incredible—without question one of the best things I ate during the entire trip. Mom enjoyed a roasted zucchini skewer topped with Parmesan along with a mixed vegetable skewer, while all of us picked up containers of beautifully prepared fresh fruit. It was one of those meals where every bite seemed better than the last.

After lunch we wandered back toward the apartment.

I wasn’t quite ready to call it a day, so I headed back out on my own to browse a few more shops. Earlier in the trip I had bought a beautiful silk scarf that I had been wearing in my hair almost every day. Somewhere during our train journey the day before, it disappeared.

I was disappointed—but only until I found another one.

While shopping I also discovered a pair of wonderfully funky earrings that simply had to come home with me.

When I returned to the apartment, Gabe had once again transformed into our personal chef. This evening’s menu featured chicken, rice, and vegetables, and somehow it was every bit as delicious as the night before.

To finish the meal, he surprised Mom with a small dessert so we could celebrate her birthday one night early. It was a simple celebration, but somehow those are often the most meaningful.

We already had plans to take her out for dinner the following evening, but this little family celebration felt like the perfect way to begin her birthday festivities.

As I write this tonight, I’m relaxing in our apartment while watching the Spanish women’s national football team parade through Madrid after returning home. The streets are filled with cheering fans, waving flags, and celebrations echoing throughout the city.

What a wonderful way to end another unforgettable day in Spain.

Sunshine, Sand, and Slowing Down in La Grande-Motte

After our incredible time in Paris, we boarded the train for La Grande-Motte in southern France. The ride itself was wonderful. We picked up lunch from the café car and spent the journey watching the scenery change from the bustling city to vineyards, rolling countryside, and eventually the Mediterranean coast.

Our arrival, however, came with a bit of unexpected drama.

As soon as we stepped off the train, we were given a lecture by one of the station employees. We were told we had brought too much luggage, that we hadn’t waited for assistance to leave the train, and that railway workers shouldn’t have to move heavy suitcases.

I politely—but firmly—explained that I hadn’t asked anyone to move our luggage. I was perfectly capable of handling it myself and had been doing exactly that. We eventually agreed to disagree and went our separate ways.

Thankfully, the rest of the day only got better.

Our driver was absolutely wonderful. He not only drove us to our apartment, but spoke with the owners to determine the best place to unload our luggage. Then he carried everything upstairs and helped us get settled before wishing us a wonderful stay.

When we opened the apartment door, we couldn’t stop smiling.

It was beautiful.

Even better, it was wonderfully cool after the summer heat we had been experiencing. The balcony overlooked the Mediterranean, and the view was absolutely breathtaking. It instantly felt like a place where we could slow down, relax, and simply enjoy being together.

Unfortunately, my faithful suitcase had finally reached the end of its journey. Somewhere between Paris and La Grande-Motte, two of its wheels broke completely off. It had survived airports, train stations, cobblestone streets, and countless miles of walking, but it had finally given up.

Our gracious host, Marie, came to the rescue. She helped me find a nearby store that sold luggage, something that wasn’t necessarily easy in a smaller seaside town.

La Grande-Motte couldn’t have been more different from Paris. If Paris is like New York City, then La Grande-Motte reminded me of spending summer at Flathead Lake back home. It has a relaxed atmosphere where everyone seems to slow down and enjoy life. The town is known for its unique pyramid-shaped apartment buildings, designed in the 1960s to resemble modern sandcastles rising above the coastline. Wide walking paths, palm trees, marinas, and miles of sandy beaches give it an entirely different feel from the historic cities we had been visiting.

While shopping for my new suitcase, I wandered through several little boutiques. I found Kiya a bright yellow top with matching pants, along with an adorable shorts romper.

As many of you already know…

She absolutely loved the yellow outfit.

She wore it for the next four days straight.

I also discovered the cutest little grocery store. It couldn’t have been much bigger than our living room and kitchen at home, but somehow it had everything we needed. Before heading back to the apartment, I stopped at a neighborhood pizza shop and picked up dinner.

That first evening we simply sat on the balcony, enjoyed the view, and appreciated having nowhere we absolutely had to be.

It was exactly what we needed.

The following morning, the three of us wandered through town and made our way to the beach. Small shops lined nearly every street, making it impossible not to stop and browse. We found a boutique with dresses that actually fit both Mom and me—a rare enough occurrence that we each bought one.

Eventually we reached the beach.

Kiya immediately settled into the shallow water, happily splashing and playing. The bay was incredibly gradual. I could walk nearly twenty feet from shore, and the water still wasn’t above my upper thighs. The day was one of the few overcast ones we experienced during our trip, making the water feel just a little chilly, but it was still beautiful.

On our walk back we found both a bakery and a wonderful little sorbet shop. Somehow Europe always seems to know exactly when you need ice cream.

We couldn’t stay out too long because someone very special was arriving.

Our son, Gabe, was flying in to spend a few days with us.

We returned to the apartment and decided to wait outside rather than risk missing him. Five minutes later, there he was, walking toward us.

It was so wonderful to see him.

After getting him settled into the apartment and catching up on everything that had happened since we left Montana, we headed down to the boardwalk for dinner. We found a terrific restaurant overlooking the beach, enjoyed a leisurely meal together, and then called it an early night.

The next morning Mom walked down to the neighborhood bakery and returned with fresh pastries for breakfast.

Then it was time for another beach day.

This time we explored a neighboring bay, and the water was noticeably warmer. Once again, the shoreline stretched far into the sea. You could walk a surprising distance before the water finally reached shoulder height.

We spent several wonderful hours swimming, floating, and simply enjoying the Mediterranean.

Earlier that morning I had purchased a few beach chairs, and thankfully our apartment came equipped with a large beach umbrella. Together they made for a perfect setup.

The sand, however, was unlike anything I had experienced before.

It was unbelievably fine.

It found its way into everything.

By the time we returned to the apartment, all of us practically had to strip down outside before heading straight for the shower. Swimsuits immediately went into the wash while we escaped into the wonderful air conditioning during the hottest part of the afternoon.

Later that evening Gabe wanted to walk along the beach at sunset.

We happily joined him.

As darkness settled in, the entire boardwalk transformed into a bustling evening craft market. Booth after booth featured handmade jewelry, artwork, clothing, pottery, soaps, and local crafts. Gabe wanted to continue working on some beach-inspired artwork he had started earlier, while I wandered from booth to booth admiring the incredible talents of the local artists.

Eventually we made our way back to our beautiful apartment, grateful once again for the cool air conditioning, the peaceful view, and another unforgettable day on the Mediterranean.

Bastille Day and the Masterpieces of the Musée d’Orsay

The next morning we all allowed ourselves to sleep in a little. After several busy days of sightseeing, it felt good not to rush.

We headed out on foot toward the Musée d’Orsay, walking through the beautiful Esplanade des Invalides. Stretching between the Seine River and the Hôtel des Invalides, the wide lawns and tree-lined walkways offered wonderful views of one of Paris’s most historic landmarks. Originally commissioned by King Louis XIV in the 1600s as a hospital and retirement home for wounded soldiers, Les Invalides is now home to several military museums and Napoleon Bonaparte’s magnificent tomb beneath its golden dome.

As we walked, we realized we had unknowingly found ourselves along part of the Bastille Day festivities.

What incredible timing!

Bastille Day, celebrated every July 14, commemorates the storming of the Bastille prison in 1789, one of the defining moments of the French Revolution. Today it serves as France’s national holiday and is marked by one of the world’s largest military parades.

This year’s celebration was especially significant. Nearly 6,700 troops, 98 aircraft, 31 helicopters, and more than 300 military vehicles participated in what was reported to be the largest Bastille Day parade ever held. France also highlighted its solidarity with its allies, welcoming Ukraine’s president as the guest of honor while showcasing its commitment to European security.

It was exciting to watch units from across the French Armed Forces marching through Paris. We saw soldiers, military vehicles, helicopters overhead, and aircraft flying as part of the celebration. While watching, one of the commanders walked over and presented us with a commemorative patch from Base Aérienne 702 (BA 702) at Avord.

The patch featured a fire-breathing dragon, a symbol traditionally representing strength, determination, and formidable power. BA 702 is one of France’s most important Air and Space Force bases and plays a key role in the country’s strategic defense. Receiving the patch completely by surprise made it an unexpected souvenir that will always remind us of spending Bastille Day in Paris.

Eventually we continued our walk to the Musée d’Orsay.

Although our timed tickets were for 9:00 a.m. and we were running a little behind, the staff welcomed us without any difficulty.

The Musée d’Orsay quickly became one of my favorite museums of the entire trip.

Housed inside the beautifully restored Gare d’Orsay railway station, built for the 1900 World’s Fair, the museum itself is a masterpiece. The soaring glass roof, enormous clock faces, and grand Beaux-Arts architecture are almost as impressive as the artwork hanging on the walls.

Its collection focuses primarily on the artistic revolution of the late 19th century, and room after room was filled with masterpieces.

We stood before paintings by Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Cézanne, and countless other artists whose works I had only ever seen in books. The museum’s sculpture galleries were equally breathtaking, filled with marble and bronze masterpieces displayed in beautifully lit open spaces.

Everywhere we turned there seemed to be another world-famous painting waiting around the next corner.

We wandered through gallery after gallery until closing time at 4:00 p.m.

Alan would have been so proud of us for staying until they practically had to usher us out!

After another full day of exploring, we walked back to our apartment, still trying to work through the ongoing issues with GuestReady and VRBO. Unfortunately, the apartment never really improved, and it remained one of the few disappointments of our entire European adventure.

Dinner that evening was simple but perfect.

We finished the leftovers from our delicious meat and cheese board, paired them with some incredibly sweet French nectarines, and enjoyed a quiet evening together.

Then it was time to repack our suitcases once again.

The next morning, our wonderful driver Nesrine would be picking us up to take us to the train station as we said goodbye to Paris and began the next chapter of our journey—heading south to the Mediterranean and the beautiful seaside town of La Grande-Motte.

Macarons, Mishaps, and Parisian Treats

We made sure to have our taxi arrive early the next morning because we were headed to one of the experiences I had been looking forward to the most—our Parisian macaron baking class.

It turned out to be one of the highlights of our time in Paris.

Our instructor, Lorenzo, was fantastic. Besides the three of us, there were two other women from the United States—Rita from Georgia and Erin from Minnesota. It was fun getting to know everyone while we baked together.

Lorenzo carefully walked us through every step of creating authentic French macarons. We started by choosing our colors. Mom chose a vibrant orange while I picked a beautiful teal. Once our batter was mixed to the proper consistency, it was time to pipe our circles onto the baking sheets.

Fortunately, everyone in our class had some baking experience, which made Lorenzo’s job a little easier.

Then came one of the most important steps—removing the air bubbles.

Lorenzo demonstrated how to gently tap the trays. I, on the other hand, simply picked up the baking sheet and gave it a good drop onto the counter. The look on Lorenzo’s face was priceless! I think I surprised not only him but also Rita and Erin, who were worried I had ruined all of our perfectly piped circles. Instead, Lorenzo laughed and assured everyone they looked just fine.

While the macarons baked, we used the leftover batter to get creative. Lorenzo showed us how to pipe hearts, flowers, and even Mickey Mouse shapes before turning us loose. I couldn’t resist experimenting and ended up making hearts, flowers, and even a yin-yang design. They turned out beautifully.

Next came my favorite part—choosing the filling.

I selected mango while Mom chose raspberry. We mixed our fillings, spooned them into piping bags, and spread them as thinly as possible before Lorenzo briefly placed them in the freezer to firm up. Once the shells had cooled, we carefully matched tops and bottoms before piping in the filling. We had to work quickly because the filling softened almost immediately. After sandwiching them together, Lorenzo returned them to the freezer for a few minutes so everything would set before packaging each person’s macarons into bags to take home.

We each walked away with fifteen beautiful homemade macarons.

Since we now had delicate desserts traveling with us, we decided to take a taxi back to our apartment to put them safely into the refrigerator.

Or so we thought.

Later that day we discovered neither the refrigerator nor the freezer at our VRBO was actually working. We could only laugh. Thankfully, the macarons survived long enough for us to enjoy them.

Before we left the class, Lorenzo shared several of his favorite shopping recommendations around Paris, one of which was CityPharma. If you’ve never heard of it, imagine one of the world’s busiest pharmacies packed with French skincare, cosmetics, and beauty products at prices far below what many people pay at home.

Busy, however, is an understatement.

The place was absolutely packed. Mom and Kiya quickly became overwhelmed by the crowds while I made my way through the aisles. I asked one of the employees for recommendations on a hydrating facial spray, a restorative night cream, and sunscreen. Then I happily wandered through the shelves picking up products that caught my attention. I can definitely see why people travel across Paris just to shop there.

After another quick shopping stop, we headed toward our afternoon canal cruise.

Unfortunately, I had misunderstood the confirmation email.

By the time we arrived, our boat had already left.

I was so disappointed. We had all been looking forward to relaxing on the water after such a busy morning, and I felt terrible knowing it was my mistake.

Rather than letting it ruin the day, we decided to simply wander the neighborhood until something caught our eye.

Before long we stumbled across an ice cream shop serving enormous sundaes.

Honestly, it was exactly what I needed.

Sometimes a little ice cream is the perfect cure for frustration.

After taking some time to regroup, we caught a taxi back to the apartment. I ran upstairs to drop off our shopping bags while Mom and Kiya waited outside.

That evening we wandered just down the street and found a wonderful little restaurant for dinner. Instead of ordering full meals, we shared a beautifully prepared meat and cheese board. Every cheese was different, and I made it my personal mission to sample every single one. It was absolutely delicious.

One thing that made me smile happened while I asked the server to box up our leftovers. Earlier in the trip I had watched the cook combine leftover food from several unfinished charcuterie boards into one container to create the next appetizer. Ever since then, I made a point of asking for our leftovers to be boxed before they ever left the table!

We ended the evening with full stomachs, homemade macarons waiting for us back at the apartment, and plans for another incredible museum the following day—the Musée d’Orsay.