Tag: france

Sunshine, Sand, and Slowing Down in La Grande-Motte

After our incredible time in Paris, we boarded the train for La Grande-Motte in southern France. The ride itself was wonderful. We picked up lunch from the café car and spent the journey watching the scenery change from the bustling city to vineyards, rolling countryside, and eventually the Mediterranean coast.

Our arrival, however, came with a bit of unexpected drama.

As soon as we stepped off the train, we were given a lecture by one of the station employees. We were told we had brought too much luggage, that we hadn’t waited for assistance to leave the train, and that railway workers shouldn’t have to move heavy suitcases.

I politely—but firmly—explained that I hadn’t asked anyone to move our luggage. I was perfectly capable of handling it myself and had been doing exactly that. We eventually agreed to disagree and went our separate ways.

Thankfully, the rest of the day only got better.

Our driver was absolutely wonderful. He not only drove us to our apartment, but spoke with the owners to determine the best place to unload our luggage. Then he carried everything upstairs and helped us get settled before wishing us a wonderful stay.

When we opened the apartment door, we couldn’t stop smiling.

It was beautiful.

Even better, it was wonderfully cool after the summer heat we had been experiencing. The balcony overlooked the Mediterranean, and the view was absolutely breathtaking. It instantly felt like a place where we could slow down, relax, and simply enjoy being together.

Unfortunately, my faithful suitcase had finally reached the end of its journey. Somewhere between Paris and La Grande-Motte, two of its wheels broke completely off. It had survived airports, train stations, cobblestone streets, and countless miles of walking, but it had finally given up.

Our gracious host, Marie, came to the rescue. She helped me find a nearby store that sold luggage, something that wasn’t necessarily easy in a smaller seaside town.

La Grande-Motte couldn’t have been more different from Paris. If Paris is like New York City, then La Grande-Motte reminded me of spending summer at Flathead Lake back home. It has a relaxed atmosphere where everyone seems to slow down and enjoy life. The town is known for its unique pyramid-shaped apartment buildings, designed in the 1960s to resemble modern sandcastles rising above the coastline. Wide walking paths, palm trees, marinas, and miles of sandy beaches give it an entirely different feel from the historic cities we had been visiting.

While shopping for my new suitcase, I wandered through several little boutiques. I found Kiya a bright yellow top with matching pants, along with an adorable shorts romper.

As many of you already know…

She absolutely loved the yellow outfit.

She wore it for the next four days straight.

I also discovered the cutest little grocery store. It couldn’t have been much bigger than our living room and kitchen at home, but somehow it had everything we needed. Before heading back to the apartment, I stopped at a neighborhood pizza shop and picked up dinner.

That first evening we simply sat on the balcony, enjoyed the view, and appreciated having nowhere we absolutely had to be.

It was exactly what we needed.

The following morning, the three of us wandered through town and made our way to the beach. Small shops lined nearly every street, making it impossible not to stop and browse. We found a boutique with dresses that actually fit both Mom and me—a rare enough occurrence that we each bought one.

Eventually we reached the beach.

Kiya immediately settled into the shallow water, happily splashing and playing. The bay was incredibly gradual. I could walk nearly twenty feet from shore, and the water still wasn’t above my upper thighs. The day was one of the few overcast ones we experienced during our trip, making the water feel just a little chilly, but it was still beautiful.

On our walk back we found both a bakery and a wonderful little sorbet shop. Somehow Europe always seems to know exactly when you need ice cream.

We couldn’t stay out too long because someone very special was arriving.

Our son, Gabe, was flying in to spend a few days with us.

We returned to the apartment and decided to wait outside rather than risk missing him. Five minutes later, there he was, walking toward us.

It was so wonderful to see him.

After getting him settled into the apartment and catching up on everything that had happened since we left Montana, we headed down to the boardwalk for dinner. We found a terrific restaurant overlooking the beach, enjoyed a leisurely meal together, and then called it an early night.

The next morning Mom walked down to the neighborhood bakery and returned with fresh pastries for breakfast.

Then it was time for another beach day.

This time we explored a neighboring bay, and the water was noticeably warmer. Once again, the shoreline stretched far into the sea. You could walk a surprising distance before the water finally reached shoulder height.

We spent several wonderful hours swimming, floating, and simply enjoying the Mediterranean.

Earlier that morning I had purchased a few beach chairs, and thankfully our apartment came equipped with a large beach umbrella. Together they made for a perfect setup.

The sand, however, was unlike anything I had experienced before.

It was unbelievably fine.

It found its way into everything.

By the time we returned to the apartment, all of us practically had to strip down outside before heading straight for the shower. Swimsuits immediately went into the wash while we escaped into the wonderful air conditioning during the hottest part of the afternoon.

Later that evening Gabe wanted to walk along the beach at sunset.

We happily joined him.

As darkness settled in, the entire boardwalk transformed into a bustling evening craft market. Booth after booth featured handmade jewelry, artwork, clothing, pottery, soaps, and local crafts. Gabe wanted to continue working on some beach-inspired artwork he had started earlier, while I wandered from booth to booth admiring the incredible talents of the local artists.

Eventually we made our way back to our beautiful apartment, grateful once again for the cool air conditioning, the peaceful view, and another unforgettable day on the Mediterranean.

Bastille Day and the Masterpieces of the Musée d’Orsay

The next morning we all allowed ourselves to sleep in a little. After several busy days of sightseeing, it felt good not to rush.

We headed out on foot toward the Musée d’Orsay, walking through the beautiful Esplanade des Invalides. Stretching between the Seine River and the Hôtel des Invalides, the wide lawns and tree-lined walkways offered wonderful views of one of Paris’s most historic landmarks. Originally commissioned by King Louis XIV in the 1600s as a hospital and retirement home for wounded soldiers, Les Invalides is now home to several military museums and Napoleon Bonaparte’s magnificent tomb beneath its golden dome.

As we walked, we realized we had unknowingly found ourselves along part of the Bastille Day festivities.

What incredible timing!

Bastille Day, celebrated every July 14, commemorates the storming of the Bastille prison in 1789, one of the defining moments of the French Revolution. Today it serves as France’s national holiday and is marked by one of the world’s largest military parades.

This year’s celebration was especially significant. Nearly 6,700 troops, 98 aircraft, 31 helicopters, and more than 300 military vehicles participated in what was reported to be the largest Bastille Day parade ever held. France also highlighted its solidarity with its allies, welcoming Ukraine’s president as the guest of honor while showcasing its commitment to European security.

It was exciting to watch units from across the French Armed Forces marching through Paris. We saw soldiers, military vehicles, helicopters overhead, and aircraft flying as part of the celebration. While watching, one of the commanders walked over and presented us with a commemorative patch from Base Aérienne 702 (BA 702) at Avord.

The patch featured a fire-breathing dragon, a symbol traditionally representing strength, determination, and formidable power. BA 702 is one of France’s most important Air and Space Force bases and plays a key role in the country’s strategic defense. Receiving the patch completely by surprise made it an unexpected souvenir that will always remind us of spending Bastille Day in Paris.

Eventually we continued our walk to the Musée d’Orsay.

Although our timed tickets were for 9:00 a.m. and we were running a little behind, the staff welcomed us without any difficulty.

The Musée d’Orsay quickly became one of my favorite museums of the entire trip.

Housed inside the beautifully restored Gare d’Orsay railway station, built for the 1900 World’s Fair, the museum itself is a masterpiece. The soaring glass roof, enormous clock faces, and grand Beaux-Arts architecture are almost as impressive as the artwork hanging on the walls.

Its collection focuses primarily on the artistic revolution of the late 19th century, and room after room was filled with masterpieces.

We stood before paintings by Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Cézanne, and countless other artists whose works I had only ever seen in books. The museum’s sculpture galleries were equally breathtaking, filled with marble and bronze masterpieces displayed in beautifully lit open spaces.

Everywhere we turned there seemed to be another world-famous painting waiting around the next corner.

We wandered through gallery after gallery until closing time at 4:00 p.m.

Alan would have been so proud of us for staying until they practically had to usher us out!

After another full day of exploring, we walked back to our apartment, still trying to work through the ongoing issues with GuestReady and VRBO. Unfortunately, the apartment never really improved, and it remained one of the few disappointments of our entire European adventure.

Dinner that evening was simple but perfect.

We finished the leftovers from our delicious meat and cheese board, paired them with some incredibly sweet French nectarines, and enjoyed a quiet evening together.

Then it was time to repack our suitcases once again.

The next morning, our wonderful driver Nesrine would be picking us up to take us to the train station as we said goodbye to Paris and began the next chapter of our journey—heading south to the Mediterranean and the beautiful seaside town of La Grande-Motte.

The Louvre, Mona Lisa, and Rodin

Our next adventure was one I had been looking forward to for years—the Louvre.

The day didn’t exactly start smoothly. We had arranged for a taxi, but instead of pulling up where we were waiting, the driver parked somewhere else and expected us to find him. With a 9:00 a.m. timed entry reservation, every minute mattered, and we were beginning to think we were going to miss it.

Fortunately, we arrived just in time. Once the staff saw Kiya’s transport chair, they graciously moved us to the front of the entry line, and within minutes we were inside the world’s largest art museum.

I had one goal to start the day—head straight to the Mona Lisa before the museum filled with visitors.

The Louvre is enormous, and it took a bit of navigating through elevators and long hallways before we finally reached her gallery. At first, we joined the regular line and slowly made our way toward the viewing area. Then Mom noticed a small sign indicating accessible access for wheelchair users.

As we made our way toward it, one of the attendants came over to meet us.

She smiled and led us around the crowds to the accessible viewing area, where we were able to stand only about five feet from Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. Behind us, the general crowd was held back roughly fifteen feet from the painting.

The attendant told us to take all the time we wanted.

She even offered to take our family photos, making sure we had pictures together in front of one of the most famous paintings in the world. It was such a thoughtful act of kindness, and it transformed what could have been a stressful experience into one of the highlights of our trip.

After spending time with the Mona Lisa, we wandered through gallery after gallery for the next several hours.

The Louvre is almost overwhelming in both its size and its collection. We searched for masterpieces by Michelangelo, admired works by Rodin, found paintings by Van Gogh, and eventually made our way to one of the museum’s most famous sculptures—the Venus de Milo.

Finding her turned into a bit of an adventure.

Several elevators had been shut down because of the extreme heat, so we found ourselves taking detours through different wings of the museum before finally arriving at the gallery. Like so much of the Louvre, the journey itself introduced us to countless unexpected works of art along the way.

The heat became such a concern that the Louvre announced it would close early at 4:00 p.m. to help protect both visitors and staff. We ended up being among the very last visitors to leave the museum that afternoon.

Before heading home, we wandered through the shops surrounding the Louvre and treated ourselves to refreshing sorbet—a perfect way to cool down after hours of walking through galleries.

Then another unexpected adventure began.

Rather than taking the underground passage, we tried to exit through one of the shopping areas, only to discover that the elevators we needed were no longer operating. We were told to return to the Louvre and use its elevators instead.

The security guards weren’t entirely convinced that was allowed.

After several conversations, they checked with the Louvre staff, who graciously welcomed us back inside.

Walking back into the museum after it had closed was one of the most surreal moments of our entire trip.

The galleries were silent.

The crowds were gone.

We rode the elevators back up beneath the famous glass pyramid, and for the first time all day there was no one around. Looking up through the pyramid without hundreds of tourists filling the space was something very few visitors ever experience. I was able to take some incredible photographs of the pyramid completely unobstructed—pictures that would have been impossible just an hour earlier.

Outside, we noticed quite a few disappointed visitors arriving for afternoon entry, unaware that the museum had already closed because of the extreme temperatures.

From there we began the long walk back toward our apartment, making our way via the Eiffel Tower. Along the way we found a restaurant just a short walk from its base and enjoyed dinner while admiring one of the world’s most recognizable landmarks. We took plenty of photographs, knowing that the following day the tower and surrounding area would be closed for Bastille Day celebrations and the evening fireworks.

We decided we needed to eat a meal out and treat ourselves. There was a restaurant on the corner by our apartment. We walked in the door and almost walked right back out. All the wait staff was dress in fancy black suits and dresses. The place had mirrors and lighting everywhere. Everyone else is dressed in very nice dinner clothes. We stumble in hot sweaty and in our street clothes. They were so gracious and served us like we were in formal wear. We had an amazing meal and had a berry pavlova for desert. After dinner we continued our walk back to the apartment.

Unfortunately, our apartment remained the biggest disappointment of our stay in Paris. It stayed unbearably hot no matter what we tried, making it difficult to relax after long days of sightseeing. We found ourselves spending as little time there as possible, treating it simply as a place to sleep before heading back out to explore another corner of this remarkable city.

A Grand Welcome to Paris

After our wonderful time in Brussels, it was time to board the train for Paris.

Of course, no travel day would be complete without a little excitement.

We had several snafus trying to get a taxi to the train station and were convinced we had missed our train. Just when we were resigning ourselves to figuring out new tickets, I received an email saying our train had been delayed. Talk about relief!

The taxi driver was wonderful. Knowing we had a mountain of luggage and that the train station entrance was surrounded by uneven cobblestones, I asked if he could help us get everything closer to the door. He happily did, saving us a great deal of effort.

As it turned out, our train was delayed nearly 50 minutes. Then, just before boarding, the railway combined two completely full trains into one. It instantly became a mad dash for seats. Mom quickly found a set of seats while I loaded all of our luggage aboard. Had she not claimed them when she did, we would have been standing for the entire two-hour journey to Paris.

When we arrived, we were greeted by our wonderful driver and guide, Nesrine. Instead of simply taking us to our apartment, we had arranged for her to spend the afternoon showing us some of Paris’s most famous landmarks. Considering the oppressive summer heat, climbing into her wonderfully air-conditioned van felt like heaven.

Our first stop was Montmartre.

I had hoped we would somehow make it to this famous hilltop neighborhood but wasn’t quite sure how we would manage it with Kiya and all of our transportation needs. Thanks to Nesrine, we didn’t have to worry about any of that.

Montmartre has been the artistic heart of Paris for centuries, once home to famous painters such as Picasso, Renoir, and Van Gogh. Its winding cobblestone streets, cafés, artists painting portraits in the square, and panoramic views over Paris make it one of the city’s most beloved neighborhoods.

At the summit stands the magnificent Basilica of Sacré-Cœur. Construction began in 1875 and was completed in 1914. Built from a unique white travertine stone that actually becomes brighter over time, the basilica almost glows against the Paris skyline. Inside, one of the world’s largest mosaics depicts Christ in Majesty, and visitors from around the world come to admire both its beauty and its breathtaking views across the city.

One thing I particularly enjoyed was all of the outdoor cafés equipped with cooling mist systems. With temperatures soaring, the gentle mist made sitting outside surprisingly comfortable.

One fascinating thing we learned was about the guest rooms operated by the basilica. Pilgrims and visitors can stay overnight for a modest donation—far less than a typical Paris hotel. The accommodations are intentionally simple, often consisting of little more than a bed and basic furnishings, providing an affordable option for travelers and those seeking a quiet place for reflection in one of the world’s most expensive cities.

From there, Nesrine drove us to the Arc de Triomphe.

Pictures simply cannot prepare you for its size.

Commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 after his victory at Austerlitz, the monument honors those who fought and died for France during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. The massive relief sculptures carved into each side depict scenes of courage, sacrifice, and victory, while the names of hundreds of French generals are engraved into the stone. Beneath the arch lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from World War I, where the Eternal Flame has burned continuously since 1923 in remembrance of those who never returned home. Standing beneath the enormous vaulted ceiling and looking up at the intricate carvings was truly awe-inspiring.

The rest of the afternoon felt like a whirlwind tour of Paris.

We admired the newly restored Notre-Dame Cathedral, whose stunning Gothic architecture once again dominates the Île de la Cité after years of restoration. We stopped at the Eiffel Tower, which somehow manages to be even more impressive in person than in photographs.

We crossed the beautiful Pont Alexandre III, often considered Paris’s most ornate bridge. Built for the 1900 World’s Fair, it is famous for its gilded winged horses, elaborate Art Nouveau lamps, and magnificent sculptures celebrating French art, science, commerce, and industry.

We also drove past both the Grand Palais and Petit Palais, two architectural masterpieces also built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Their magnificent glass roofs, grand columns, and richly decorated façades showcase the elegance of Paris during the Belle Époque.

Everywhere we looked there seemed to be another famous monument, another beautiful boulevard, or another breathtaking building. It was an incredible introduction to one of the world’s great cities.

Eventually Nesrine dropped us off at our VRBO.

Unfortunately, the apartment itself was a disappointment. It was extremely hot, and we quickly discovered there were several issues—including not having any toilet paper for three of our four days there. More on that adventure later.

After such a long day of travel and sightseeing, we were exhausted. Rather than heading back out into the heat, I ordered groceries and dinner through Uber Eats, and we settled in for the evening.

Despite the apartment’s shortcomings, our first afternoon in Paris had been unforgettable. Thanks to Nesrine, we had already fallen a little in love with the City of Light before we’d even unpacked our suitcases.