Inverness, Loch Ness, and Our Farewell to Scotland

Our final adventure in Scotland took us north to Inverness by way of Aberdeen. The plan was simple—or so we thought! We would spend one night in Inverness, take a cruise on Loch Ness, enjoy afternoon tea at Inverness Castle, tour the castle, wander through town, have dinner, explore a little more the next morning, and then return to Dundee before beginning the next leg of our journey.

Well… somewhere along the way, we completely messed up our dates.

We discovered our mistake when our VRBO sent us checkout instructions for the following morning—even though we hadn’t even arrived yet!  After a few moments of panic, we scrambled to find somewhere to stay for one extra night in Dundee after we returned. Thankfully, we found a room at the Four Points by Sheraton, conveniently located above the train station, and were able to change our train tickets to an earlier departure the next morning so we could make it back before checkout. Unfortunately, Pillow Partners wasn’t very accommodating, but thankfully everything worked out in the end. It certainly wasn’t how we planned to start our adventure!

Once all the logistics were sorted, we settled into enjoying Inverness.

Our cruise on Loch Ness was absolutely beautiful. Loch Ness stretches about 23 miles through the Scottish Highlands and reaches an astonishing depth of around 754 feet, making it one of the deepest lakes in the United Kingdom. Unlike Montana’s crystal-clear Flathead Lake, the waters of Loch Ness are incredibly dark and mysterious. The deep brown color comes from peat washed down from the surrounding hills, giving the loch its famous murky appearance.

It was impossible not to compare it with home.

Loch NessFlathead Lake
Scottish HighlandsNorthwestern Montana
23 miles long30 miles long
Up to 754 feet deepAbout 370 feet deep
Dark, peat-stained waterCrystal-clear mountain water
Home of the legendary NessieHome of “Flessie,” Montana’s own lake monster legend
Surrounded by ancient castles and rolling green hillsFramed by the spectacular Mission Mountains and Wild Horse Island

Kiya and I spent much of the cruise sitting on the lower level. We ventured outside for a while, but the Highland wind quickly convinced us to head back indoors. On the return trip, however, the clouds parted, the sun came out, and Kiya enjoyed a peaceful nap while I soaked in the scenery.

Our guide shared fascinating facts about the loch, including that just a few feet below the surface, the water becomes so dark that divers can quickly lose all sense of direction. No wonder legends of the Loch Ness Monster have survived for generations! Whether you believe in Nessie or not, there is certainly something mysterious about looking across that dark, endless water.

From the loch we hurried to Inverness Castle for afternoon tea.

This turned out to be one of my favorite parts of the day. For over an hour, we simply sat together enjoying delicious sandwiches, pastries, cakes, and tea while overlooking the River Ness. After several busy days of sightseeing, it was wonderful to slow down, relax, and simply enjoy being together.

The castle itself was another surprise. Unlike many of the medieval castles we had visited throughout Scotland, Inverness Castle has recently been transformed into a modern visitor experience celebrating the history, culture, and stories of the Highlands. While the outside still looks every bit the historic fortress overlooking the city, the interior has been beautifully renovated with interactive exhibits, immersive displays, and panoramic viewing areas. It was a very different experience from Edinburgh or Drum Castle, but one we thoroughly enjoyed.

After exploring, we walked to our VRBO and were pleasantly surprised—it was even nicer than the pictures! That almost never happens. It was elegantly decorated, had wonderfully comfortable beds and pillows (if you know, you know!), and the most comfortable couch where we relaxed for the evening while watching a little telly.

Before settling in for the night, we wandered through the city. We stopped at the famous Leakey’s Bookshop, Scotland’s largest secondhand bookstore, housed inside a converted 18th-century church complete with a roaring wood-burning stove and thousands upon thousands of books. Even though we didn’t buy anything, it was worth visiting just to experience the atmosphere.

Of course, no summer afternoon is complete without ice cream, so we treated ourselves before strolling through the charming Victorian Market, a beautifully restored indoor shopping arcade filled with local shops and cafés.

Dinner was another highlight. I had an incredibly delicious pork poke bowl while Mom enjoyed a flavorful stir fry. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful day.

The next morning our alarm came far too early. We caught the 7:00 a.m. train back to Dundee, grabbing coffee and pastries for breakfast before boarding. Because we had thoughtfully packed most of our luggage before leaving for Inverness, we were able to finish packing quickly once we arrived back in Dundee.

Our last-night hotel room at the Four Points was tiny but comfortable. We never did figure out how to adjust the room temperature or find the air conditioning, but after seven weeks of travel, we’ve learned to adapt!

With our bags packed, we spent one final afternoon exploring Dundee. We wandered through the city centre one last time before taking a taxi up to Dundee Law.

We asked our driver if he would wait while we explored and then take us back down, and without hesitation he agreed. Once again, we were reminded how incredibly kind and accommodating the taxi drivers throughout Scotland had been. Dundee has many wheelchair-accessible taxis where a wheelchair can simply roll into the back of the vehicle. Most of the time we transferred Kiya into a seat beside us, but this time she preferred to stay comfortably in her chair, and our driver couldn’t have been more patient.

Dundee Law was the perfect place to say goodbye to Scotland. Rising nearly 600 feet above the city, this extinct volcanic hill offers breathtaking 360-degree views across Dundee, the River Tay, and the surrounding countryside. Standing at the summit beside the impressive war memorial, we could see nearly every place we had explored during our stay.

Looking out over the city also reminded us of Dundee’s remarkable history. During the 19th century, Dundee became known as the “City of Jute, Jam, and Journalism.” Jute—a strong natural fiber imported primarily from India—was spun and woven into rope, sacks, and fabric in dozens of mills throughout the city. At one point, Dundee was the world’s largest producer of jute, and that industry shaped both the city’s skyline and its people for generations.

The panoramic views beneath a brilliant blue sky made it the perfect ending to our Scottish adventure.

Afterward, our driver dropped us at the Bank Bar for one last Scottish dinner. We enjoyed potato and leek soup along with halloumi fries served with sweet chili sauce.

I have officially become addicted to halloumi fries.

With full stomachs and grateful hearts, we returned to our hotel to prepare for the next chapter of our adventure. The following morning, we would leave Scotland behind and travel south to Manchester to spend time with Alan and Moira.

Scotland exceeded every expectation we had. The breathtaking landscapes, incredible history, friendly people, accessible transportation, and unforgettable experiences made this one of the most special places we have ever visited. While we were excited for what came next, none of us were quite ready to say goodbye.

One of our biggest compliments came just before we left. Throughout our stay, people would often ask us where we lived in Dundee. They assumed we were locals rather than visitors. As we stood on the platform with all of our luggage, one of the train attendants looked surprised and said, “I thought you lived here!” We laughed and explained that we had been visiting for the past week. Somehow, over those days, Dundee had begun to feel a little like home. There really couldn’t have been a better compliment or a more fitting way to say goodbye to Scotland.

A Perfect Day in St Andrews and Designing Our Own Islander Bags

Today we took the train from Dundee to the beautiful coastal town of St Andrews, just a short ride away. Best known as the “Home of Golf,” St Andrews is one of Scotland’s oldest and most historic towns. It is home to the world-famous Old Course, where golf has been played for over 600 years, and to the prestigious University of St Andrews, founded in 1413. It is also where Prince William and Catherine Middleton first met while attending university. Beyond golf, St Andrews is filled with medieval streets, charming shops, ancient ruins, beautiful beaches, and a relaxed seaside atmosphere.

Our wonderful taxi driver, Adam, met us at the station and drove us into town. He was absolutely perfect for us. From the moment we climbed into his taxi, we were chatting and laughing like old friends who had known each other for years. It is amazing how quickly genuine kindness can make a place feel like home. Before dropping us off, Adam assured us he would return later to take us back to the train station. Having transportation arranged made the entire day completely stress-free.

Our main adventure was visiting the Islander workshop to design our very own Harris Tweed bags. Islander is a Scottish company that creates customizable handbags and accessories handcrafted with authentic Harris Tweed—a beautiful wool fabric handwoven by islanders in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides. Every bag is individually designed by the customer, allowing you to choose the body, flap, straps, handles, and hardware to create something completely unique. We choose the St. Andrew’s shop as we figured it would be quieter than the shops in Edinburgh. Boy, was I correct. Besides us there was one other person making a bag.

The moment we walked through the door, Kiya knew exactly what she wanted to do. While Mom and I began the difficult task of choosing colors and styles, Kiya happily settled in to watch one of her movies. It was the perfect outing for her.

Choosing our bags was much harder than we expected! There were so many gorgeous fabrics, leather colors, straps, handles, and hardware combinations that it almost became overwhelming—in the best possible way. I really wish I had taken a picture of the enormous display wall filled with every imaginable color and pattern. I’ve included a few photos from the internet because they give a much better idea of just how many options there were.

We started by selecting the style of bag we wanted before moving on to choosing the Harris Tweed fabric for the body. Next came the leather flap, handles, shoulder strap, and all the finishing touches. Piece by piece, our bags slowly came together into something that was uniquely ours.

It was such a fun experience—not simply buying a souvenir, but creating one that will always remind us of Scotland. If I had more room in my suitcase, I probably would have made several more!

After finishing our bags, we enjoyed lunch and spent the afternoon wandering through the charming streets of St Andrews. The town has such a relaxed pace, with beautiful stone buildings, colorful storefronts, and little shops around every corner. It felt like the kind of place where you could spend days simply exploring.

At the end of the afternoon, true to his word, Adam returned to pick us up and drive us back to the train station. It was one of those wonderfully simple days—good conversation, creative fun, beautiful scenery, and time spent together. Days like this often become the ones you remember most.

Kiya had an absolutely perfect day, and honestly, so did we.

Ramps, Rails, and Ruins: A Day in Kilkenny

Our First Full Day in Dublin: A Trip to Kilkenny

Our first full day in Dublin did not quite go as originally planned. We had intended to visit Belfast, but due to the protests taking place there, we decided to alter our plans and head to Kilkenny instead. Looking back, it turned out to be a wonderful choice.

We navigated our way to the train station using a taxi app and checked in with the assistance team. From there, we made our way down to the trains and asked where we needed to go. The accessibility assistance on Irish Rail has been incredible. At both stations, staff met us with ramps and helped us board and exit the train. It made traveling with Kiya so much easier and less stressful.

The train ride itself was beautiful. We spent much of the journey looking out the window and taking in the Irish countryside. We marveled at the hedge-row fencing that divides the fields and noticed how often sheep and cattle grazed together in the same pasture. The rolling green landscape looked exactly like the Ireland we had imagined.

Upon arriving in Kilkenny, we grabbed a taxi and headed straight to Kilkenny Castle. We joined a guided tour and quickly became fascinated with the castle’s history. Originally built in 1195 by the Norman lord William Marshal, the castle was designed to control a key crossing of the River Nore and demonstrate Norman power in Ireland. Over the centuries, it became the home of the powerful Butler family, Earls and later Dukes of Ormond, who lived there for nearly 600 years. The castle survived wars, political upheaval, and changing fortunes before eventually being sold to the people of Kilkenny in 1967 for the symbolic sum of £50. Walking through the grand rooms and learning about the families who lived there made it easy to imagine what life was like centuries ago.

After our tour, we enjoyed a delicious scone and a bowl of soup on the castle grounds before setting off to explore the town. The castle gardens and parklands were beautiful and offered a peaceful place to relax and take in the surroundings.

One of the places I really wanted to visit was St. Canice’s Cathedral. The pictures I had seen were incredible, and I was excited to see it in person. Unfortunately, a service was taking place when we arrived, so we were unable to go inside. We did spend some time wandering around the grounds, which were beautiful in their own right, before continuing our walk through town.

Kilkenny is such a charming city. We wandered the narrow streets, explored shops, and eventually stopped for a coffee to recharge. It was nice to sit for a while and watch the world go by before continuing our adventure.

As evening approached, we began looking for a place to eat dinner. After considering several options, we settled on a local pub. Mom ordered the Irish Stew, while I chose the Cottage Pie. Both meals were delicious and hearty after a long day of exploring, although we both agreed they were a little heavy on the bay leaf!

With full stomachs and tired feet, we made our way back to the train station for the journey home. Once again, the train staff were wonderful with accessibility assistance, making the trip smooth and stress-free.

It may not have been the day we originally planned, but Kilkenny turned out to be a highlight of our time in Ireland. Between the castle, the countryside, the friendly people, and the wonderful food, it was a day well spent.