Canals, Countryside, and Clarkson’s Farm

Our final full day with Alan and Moira was spent enjoying one of Britain’s most iconic experiences—a leisurely cruise on a narrowboat along the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Llangollen canal. Alan and Moira had rented the boat for the day, and we were joined by their son, Adrian, his daughter, Edie, and Eva, another granddaughter, making it a wonderful family outing.

Built by renowned engineer Thomas Telford and completed in 1805, the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is the highest navigable aqueduct in the world, standing 126 feet (38 meters) above the River Dee. Stretching over 1,000 feet long, it carries both narrowboats and pedestrians high above the valley below. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009 and is considered one of the greatest achievements of the Industrial Revolution.

It took a little while to get everyone aboard and go through the safety instructions, although Alan already knew how to operate a canal boat. Before long we encountered our first adventure—a true boat traffic jam! Canoe tours, boats returning to the marina, and our boat all trying to pass through the same narrow stretch created quite the bottleneck. We moored for a short while as everyone worked together to figure out the best way to maneuver around one another. There was plenty of smiling, waving, and patient waiting, reminding us that canal life moves at its own peaceful pace.

Once underway, the canal became incredibly tranquil. We slowly glided through the lush green countryside with birds singing overhead while ducks and graceful swans floated alongside us. It was easy to forget about schedules and simply enjoy the beauty surrounding us. Moira had packed a wonderful picnic lunch, which we enjoyed aboard as we drifted through the Welsh countryside.

After lunch, Mom and I walked across the magnificent Chirk Aqueduct, not realizing until we reached the opposite end that we had actually walked from Wales into England! The Chirk Aqueduct is a 70 foot (21 m) high and 710 foot (220 m) long navigable aqueduct that carries what is now the Llangollen Canal across the Ceiriog Valley near Chirk, on the England-Wales border, spanning two countries.

Standing on the narrow footpath with nothing but a railing separating us from the dramatic drop below was both exhilarating and unforgettable. The views across the valley were breathtaking, and I captured a couple of photographs that I already know will be framed when we get home.

We spent nearly six hours on the canal, from 10:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m., before cooling off with some well-earned ice cream. Afterward we returned to Alan and Moira’s home for dinner and spent the evening packing for the next leg of our adventure.

The following morning a hired driver picked us up for our journey from Manchester to Southampton. We had originally planned to travel by train, but engineering work had closed the line we needed. Our only rail option would have required traveling all the way to London before heading back south to Southampton, so hiring a driver made much more sense.

Since we were traveling by road, I asked if we could drive through the beautiful Cotswolds and stop at Diddly Squat Farm Shop, made famous by Jeremy Clarkson’s television series Clarkson’s Farm. The farm shop has become an unexpected tourist destination, selling produce and products made on the farm, including milk, cheese, honey, jams, sauces, beer, cider, and souvenirs. I wasn’t sure we would even make it into the parking lot, let alone inside the shop.

When we arrived, the queue stretched well beyond the entrance. I quickly realized there was no way we would get inside during the hour we had allowed. Our driver suggested speaking with the staff about Kiya’s wheelchair. After showing our Montana disability parking placard, they kindly allowed us to enter through the accessible queue. We were incredibly grateful for their understanding.

While waiting inside, a young man—probably around 18 or 20 years old—stood in front of me with an armful of products. He had grabbed nearly one of everything: milk, cheese, pasta sauce, crisps, and more. At one point he apologized for taking so long. I smiled and told him, “No need to apologize. You may only get here once, so make the most of it.” His excitement was contagious, and it perfectly captured how special the experience felt for so many visitors. We picked up a few souvenirs, snapped some photos, and continued our journey.

Along the drive we also passed through the historic city of Oxford, home to the world-famous University of Oxford, whose colleges have educated scholars, scientists, writers, and world leaders for nearly a thousand years. Even from the car, the city’s beautiful stone buildings and historic architecture were impressive.

We arrived in Southampton with plenty of time to grab a coffee and relax before boarding the ferry. Soon we were crossing the Solent toward the Isle of Wight, excited to begin another chapter of our adventure.

From Train Delays to Telescopes: A Day at Jodrell Bank

We arrived in Manchester in the middle of a heatwave, and the weather certainly made itself known. Our train journey was delayed because the rails had become so hot that trains were required to travel at a much slower speed for safety. It was an unusual reminder of how extreme temperatures can affect transportation.

Our arrival at Edinburgh Haymarket added a bit more excitement to the day. We had arranged assistance to get off the train with Kiya, but when we arrived no one was there. A glitch in the computer system had failed to notify the station staff that we needed assistance. What followed was an unforgettable exchange as the train conductor loudly accused the station employee of abandoning the train, while the station employee insisted they had never received the notification. After about five minutes of spirited debate, cooler heads prevailed, we safely made it off the train, and continued on our way. By then the train’s air conditioning had been overwhelmed by the heat, and we all stepped off looking like we had our own “train glow.”

Moira met us at the station with taxis waiting to take us back to her home. It was wonderful to finally relax, enjoy the cool breeze flowing through the house, and catch up over a lovely home-cooked dinner after a long day of travel.

The following day we visited Jodrell Bank Observatory, one of the world’s leading centers for radio astronomy and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Established in 1945 by Sir Bernard Lovell, Jodrell Bank has played a vital role in scientific discovery for decades. Its famous Lovell Telescope, completed in 1957, was the largest steerable radio telescope in the world at the time and remains one of Britain’s greatest engineering achievements. The telescope has tracked spacecraft, studied pulsars, quasars, and distant galaxies, and even helped monitor early space missions during the Space Race. Standing beneath it gives you a true appreciation for both the scale of the universe and the ingenuity required to explore it.

We wandered the beautiful grounds, enjoying a picnic lunch in the café, where the air conditioning was a welcome relief from the heat. They kindly allowed us to enjoy our picnic inside, which we greatly appreciated. We then explored the interactive Discovery Centre, filled with hands-on exhibits explaining radio astronomy, the search for extraterrestrial life, black holes, and the evolution of our universe. It was fascinating and engaging for visitors of all ages.

After lunch, Mom and I walked up to the Lovell Telescope. While we were standing there, we watched it move three separate times. First the massive base slowly rotated, then the enormous dish tilted, and finally both moved together. What amazed us most wasn’t the movement itself, but how incredibly quiet it was. I had expected loud clunks, grinding gears, and mechanical noises, yet this 3,200-ton structure glided almost silently into position. Watching such a gigantic machine move with such grace was one of the highlights of the day.

We finished the afternoon with a scenic drive through the Cheshire countryside before enjoying dinner at The Barn Owl Inn right along side a canal. Between the fascinating science, peaceful countryside, wonderful company, and delicious meal, it was the perfect way to spend another memorable day in England.

Inverness, Loch Ness, and Our Farewell to Scotland

Our final adventure in Scotland took us north to Inverness by way of Aberdeen. The plan was simple—or so we thought! We would spend one night in Inverness, take a cruise on Loch Ness, enjoy afternoon tea at Inverness Castle, tour the castle, wander through town, have dinner, explore a little more the next morning, and then return to Dundee before beginning the next leg of our journey.

Well… somewhere along the way, we completely messed up our dates.

We discovered our mistake when our VRBO sent us checkout instructions for the following morning—even though we hadn’t even arrived yet!  After a few moments of panic, we scrambled to find somewhere to stay for one extra night in Dundee after we returned. Thankfully, we found a room at the Four Points by Sheraton, conveniently located above the train station, and were able to change our train tickets to an earlier departure the next morning so we could make it back before checkout. Unfortunately, Pillow Partners wasn’t very accommodating, but thankfully everything worked out in the end. It certainly wasn’t how we planned to start our adventure!

Once all the logistics were sorted, we settled into enjoying Inverness.

Our cruise on Loch Ness was absolutely beautiful. Loch Ness stretches about 23 miles through the Scottish Highlands and reaches an astonishing depth of around 754 feet, making it one of the deepest lakes in the United Kingdom. Unlike Montana’s crystal-clear Flathead Lake, the waters of Loch Ness are incredibly dark and mysterious. The deep brown color comes from peat washed down from the surrounding hills, giving the loch its famous murky appearance.

It was impossible not to compare it with home.

Loch NessFlathead Lake
Scottish HighlandsNorthwestern Montana
23 miles long30 miles long
Up to 754 feet deepAbout 370 feet deep
Dark, peat-stained waterCrystal-clear mountain water
Home of the legendary NessieHome of “Flessie,” Montana’s own lake monster legend
Surrounded by ancient castles and rolling green hillsFramed by the spectacular Mission Mountains and Wild Horse Island

Kiya and I spent much of the cruise sitting on the lower level. We ventured outside for a while, but the Highland wind quickly convinced us to head back indoors. On the return trip, however, the clouds parted, the sun came out, and Kiya enjoyed a peaceful nap while I soaked in the scenery.

Our guide shared fascinating facts about the loch, including that just a few feet below the surface, the water becomes so dark that divers can quickly lose all sense of direction. No wonder legends of the Loch Ness Monster have survived for generations! Whether you believe in Nessie or not, there is certainly something mysterious about looking across that dark, endless water.

From the loch we hurried to Inverness Castle for afternoon tea.

This turned out to be one of my favorite parts of the day. For over an hour, we simply sat together enjoying delicious sandwiches, pastries, cakes, and tea while overlooking the River Ness. After several busy days of sightseeing, it was wonderful to slow down, relax, and simply enjoy being together.

The castle itself was another surprise. Unlike many of the medieval castles we had visited throughout Scotland, Inverness Castle has recently been transformed into a modern visitor experience celebrating the history, culture, and stories of the Highlands. While the outside still looks every bit the historic fortress overlooking the city, the interior has been beautifully renovated with interactive exhibits, immersive displays, and panoramic viewing areas. It was a very different experience from Edinburgh or Drum Castle, but one we thoroughly enjoyed.

After exploring, we walked to our VRBO and were pleasantly surprised—it was even nicer than the pictures! That almost never happens. It was elegantly decorated, had wonderfully comfortable beds and pillows (if you know, you know!), and the most comfortable couch where we relaxed for the evening while watching a little telly.

Before settling in for the night, we wandered through the city. We stopped at the famous Leakey’s Bookshop, Scotland’s largest secondhand bookstore, housed inside a converted 18th-century church complete with a roaring wood-burning stove and thousands upon thousands of books. Even though we didn’t buy anything, it was worth visiting just to experience the atmosphere.

Of course, no summer afternoon is complete without ice cream, so we treated ourselves before strolling through the charming Victorian Market, a beautifully restored indoor shopping arcade filled with local shops and cafés.

Dinner was another highlight. I had an incredibly delicious pork poke bowl while Mom enjoyed a flavorful stir fry. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful day.

The next morning our alarm came far too early. We caught the 7:00 a.m. train back to Dundee, grabbing coffee and pastries for breakfast before boarding. Because we had thoughtfully packed most of our luggage before leaving for Inverness, we were able to finish packing quickly once we arrived back in Dundee.

Our last-night hotel room at the Four Points was tiny but comfortable. We never did figure out how to adjust the room temperature or find the air conditioning, but after seven weeks of travel, we’ve learned to adapt!

With our bags packed, we spent one final afternoon exploring Dundee. We wandered through the city centre one last time before taking a taxi up to Dundee Law.

We asked our driver if he would wait while we explored and then take us back down, and without hesitation he agreed. Once again, we were reminded how incredibly kind and accommodating the taxi drivers throughout Scotland had been. Dundee has many wheelchair-accessible taxis where a wheelchair can simply roll into the back of the vehicle. Most of the time we transferred Kiya into a seat beside us, but this time she preferred to stay comfortably in her chair, and our driver couldn’t have been more patient.

Dundee Law was the perfect place to say goodbye to Scotland. Rising nearly 600 feet above the city, this extinct volcanic hill offers breathtaking 360-degree views across Dundee, the River Tay, and the surrounding countryside. Standing at the summit beside the impressive war memorial, we could see nearly every place we had explored during our stay.

Looking out over the city also reminded us of Dundee’s remarkable history. During the 19th century, Dundee became known as the “City of Jute, Jam, and Journalism.” Jute—a strong natural fiber imported primarily from India—was spun and woven into rope, sacks, and fabric in dozens of mills throughout the city. At one point, Dundee was the world’s largest producer of jute, and that industry shaped both the city’s skyline and its people for generations.

The panoramic views beneath a brilliant blue sky made it the perfect ending to our Scottish adventure.

Afterward, our driver dropped us at the Bank Bar for one last Scottish dinner. We enjoyed potato and leek soup along with halloumi fries served with sweet chili sauce.

I have officially become addicted to halloumi fries.

With full stomachs and grateful hearts, we returned to our hotel to prepare for the next chapter of our adventure. The following morning, we would leave Scotland behind and travel south to Manchester to spend time with Alan and Moira.

Scotland exceeded every expectation we had. The breathtaking landscapes, incredible history, friendly people, accessible transportation, and unforgettable experiences made this one of the most special places we have ever visited. While we were excited for what came next, none of us were quite ready to say goodbye.

One of our biggest compliments came just before we left. Throughout our stay, people would often ask us where we lived in Dundee. They assumed we were locals rather than visitors. As we stood on the platform with all of our luggage, one of the train attendants looked surprised and said, “I thought you lived here!” We laughed and explained that we had been visiting for the past week. Somehow, over those days, Dundee had begun to feel a little like home. There really couldn’t have been a better compliment or a more fitting way to say goodbye to Scotland.