Windmills, Waterways, and Wheels of Cheese

We woke up a little sad to be leaving London. It had been everything we hoped it would be and more. Before long, though, it was time to begin the next chapter of our adventure—the Netherlands.

We made our way to St. Pancras International Station for the Eurostar. I had booked travel assistance online two days earlier, but once again there was no one to be found. By this point, we weren’t surprised. We loaded ourselves onto the train, settled into our seats, and prepared for another journey.

This train ride turned out to be one of our favorites. Shortly after departure we were served a light breakfast with pastries, juice, and coffee. It felt like such a relaxing way to travel. Before long we passed through several tunnels, and then suddenly we were entering the Channel Tunnel, better known as the Chunnel. Stretching over 31 miles (50 kilometers), it is the longest underwater tunnel in the world and connects England with France beneath the English Channel. It was amazing to think we were traveling beneath the sea.

We arrived in Brussels, where we transferred to another train bound for Amsterdam. From there, our Uber driver picked us up and drove us to our home for the next few days—a houseboat on the edge of a peaceful lake.

Getting inside was our first adventure. The front door had swollen from the moisture and refused to open. After about 15 to 20 minutes of pushing, pulling, and a lot of determination, we finally made it inside. Reaching the boat also meant navigating a long, narrow dock, which kept us on our toes with all of our luggage and Kiya’s transport chair.

Once inside, however, every bit of effort was worth it.

It was one of the most peaceful places we’ve stayed. The houseboat sat quietly on the water overlooking a beautiful lake, with birds gliding past and boats gently drifting by. Our bedrooms were actually below the waterline. It felt perfectly normal—until you stopped and remembered you were sleeping underwater! It was definitely one of the most unique accommodations we’ve ever experienced.

We intentionally spent our first full day close to the houseboat. After weeks of constant sightseeing, we all needed a morning to sleep in and recharge. We wandered through the nearby town of Aalsmeer, located about a ten-minute walk from our VRBO. The town was charming, with canals, cafés, and friendly neighborhoods. Known worldwide for its enormous flower auction—the largest in the world—Aalsmeer has long been at the center of the international flower trade. We enjoyed exploring the town before finishing the day with an excellent dinner at a local restaurant.

The following day we headed into Amsterdam. We spent hours simply wandering the city, taking in the beautiful canals, narrow historic buildings, bicycles everywhere, and the lively atmosphere. One of the highlights was taking a canal cruise through the neighborhoods. Seeing Amsterdam from the water gave us a completely different perspective on the city and its remarkable 17th-century canal system, which has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Of course, no trip to the Netherlands would be complete without tasting Dutch cheese. Between Amsterdam and Zaanse Schans, I think we sampled just about every cheese available! Gouda, Edam, smoked cheeses, herb cheeses, garlic cheeses, truffle cheeses—you name it, we probably tried it. Every cheese shop welcomed visitors with generous samples, making it nearly impossible to walk out without buying a few favorites. Let’s just say we were definitely not hungry while shopping!

As we explored, we came upon a peaceful protest where members of the Tibetan community and their supporters were calling for China to end its occupation of Tibet. It was another reminder that cities often become gathering places where people from around the world come together to peacefully share their voices and stories.

Our final full day in the Netherlands began with an early start so we could attend the famous Edam Cheese Market. What a joyful experience! Dating back centuries, the traditional cheese market recreates how farmers and merchants once traded Edam’s world-famous cheese. Men dressed in traditional white clothing carried large wheels of cheese on wooden stretchers while buyers and sellers demonstrated the historic bargaining process. It was such a wonderful way to preserve and celebrate Dutch heritage, and the entire town embraced the tradition. Watching the cheese carriers in action made us appreciate just how important cheese has been to Dutch culture for hundreds of years.

After exploring Edam, we continued on to Zaanse Schans, one of the Netherlands’ most famous historic villages. It feels like stepping back into the 18th and 19th centuries, with working windmills, traditional wooden houses painted green, artisan workshops, and peaceful canals. The windmills once powered industries ranging from sawmills and oil production to spice grinding and paint manufacturing, helping fuel the Dutch Golden Age.

We wandered through the village, watched the windmills turning in the breeze, browsed the artisan shops, and of course sampled even more cheese. By then I think we had officially tasted nearly every variety the Netherlands had to offer! We enjoyed a wonderful lunch before spending the afternoon exploring the historic buildings and soaking in the beautiful countryside. It was easy to understand why this is one of the country’s most visited destinations.

That evening we returned to our floating home, finished the leftovers in the refrigerator, packed our suitcases once again, and prepared for our next destination—Brussels.

Each country we’ve visited has had its own unique personality, but the Netherlands stole a little piece of our hearts. Between the peaceful canals, centuries-old windmills, welcoming people, incredible cheese, and the slower pace of life, it was a place that invited you to slow down, breathe deeply, and simply enjoy the moment.

Boats, Bakeries, and Breathtaking Views of London

One of the things we were most excited to experience in London was traveling by Uber Boat along the River Thames. Instead of navigating crowded streets, we started our day cruising down the river to Westminster Pier. What an easy way to get around London.

From there we walked around Big Ben, officially known as the Elizabeth Tower, and admired the magnificent Westminster Abbey. Seeing both landmarks in person was surreal after seeing them in countless books, documentaries, and television programs over the years. Big Ben has the best sound. I kept trying to get a video but was not successful.

We then boarded Thames Sightseeing Boat for the trip upriver to Greenwich. The young man providing the onboard commentary absolutely made the journey. He was hilarious! His commentary was packed with witty jokes, sarcastic remarks, and fascinating history. If you weren’t paying attention, you missed half the punchlines. We enjoyed him so much that we left him a tip when we disembarked.

The cruise itself was beautiful. As we floated along the Thames, we passed centuries of history—bridges, warehouses converted into apartments, royal buildings, and famous landmarks. At one point we even cruised past a former home owned by Cher. It’s probably the closest I’ll ever get to meeting her since COVID canceled the concert I had tickets to years ago!

As soon as we arrived in Greenwich, we stopped at a small neighborhood bakery. We picked up a pain aux raisins, two fruit scones, and a sour cherry loaf. I’m so glad we stopped first because when we returned later that afternoon, nearly everything had sold out.

Our next stop was Greenwich Market, one of London’s oldest markets, dating back to the 1700s. Today it’s filled with local artisans, handmade crafts, antiques, artwork, clothing, and an incredible variety of food vendors. Mom chose a green curry with rice while I enjoyed a delicious Moroccan chicken wrap. Afterwards we wandered through the market, browsing the unique shops and stalls. Mom surprised me by buying the funkiest pair of earrings. I was so proud of her for stepping outside her comfort zone! Then I wandered into an equally quirky shoe store. We continued walking, but when we passed it a second time I finally admitted, “I’ll regret not buying something.” Sure enough, I walked out with two wonderfully funky pairs of shoes.

Our biggest adventure of the day was hiking up the steep hill through Greenwich Park to the Royal Observatory. I do mean hiking—it was a nonstop uphill climb! At the top sits the observatory founded in 1675 by King Charles II. It became one of the world’s most important centers for astronomy and navigation. The observatory is home to the Great Equatorial Telescope, installed in 1893. At the time it was one of the largest refracting telescopes in Britain, allowing astronomers to study planets, stars, and nebulae in remarkable detail. Standing beneath its massive dome, it was easy to appreciate how much of our understanding of the universe began in places like this.

Just to the side of the observatory is one of the most famous lines in the world—the Prime Meridian (0° longitude). This imaginary line divides the Earth into the Eastern and Western Hemispheres and serves as the reference point for world longitude and Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), from which all global time zones are measured. Of course, we had to stand with one foot in the Western Hemisphere and one in the Eastern Hemisphere!

The views overlooking London from the observatory were spectacular and well worth every burning muscle it took to get there. We did notice signs warning visitors about pickpockets, so we kept a close eye on our belongings while exploring.

Going back down the hill was almost as exciting as climbing it. The path was incredibly steep. I leaned back while holding Kiya’s transport chair with both brakes partially engaged to control our speed. We certainly made quick work of the descent!

After spending more time wandering Greenwich’s charming streets, we returned to the river and boarded another boat back to Westminster Pier. From there we crossed the Thames to ride the London Eye.

Kiya absolutely loved the ride—except for the very top! Being that high in the air wasn’t quite her favorite part. The slow rotation gave us incredible panoramic views stretching across London in every direction, and the air-conditioned capsule was a welcome break after another warm day of sightseeing.

Afterward we enjoyed dinner at a cozy Italian restaurant before heading back to the river, expecting to catch our Uber Boat home. That’s when we discovered our final adventure of the day—boats no longer traveled back to our pier in the evening. After quite a bit of asking questions, checking routes, and trying to figure out our options, we finally hailed a taxi and made it back to the apartment around 9:00 p.m.

By then Kiya was completely exhausted, and honestly, so were we. It had been another full day of exploring, laughing, learning, and making memories in one of the world’s greatest cities.

A Final Day in London

Our last day in London began with a taxi ride to Leadenhall Market, one of the city’s most beautiful covered markets. Dating back to the 14th century, the market stands on the site of what was once Roman London and was redesigned in 1881 by architect Sir Horace Jones, who also designed Tower Bridge and Smithfield Market. Its colorful Victorian ironwork, ornate roof, and cobbled walkways make it one of London’s architectural treasures.

Harry Potter fans will recognize Leadenhall Market immediately. It served as the filming location for Diagon Alley in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. The blue-fronted optician at Bull’s Head Passage was transformed into the entrance to the Leaky Cauldron, making it a must-see destination for fans of the series.

We wandered through the market, admiring the architecture before settling in for a lovely lasagna lunch. Afterwards we strolled through the surrounding neighborhoods toward the Tower of London. Along the way we found ourselves constantly looking up. London has an incredible way of blending centuries-old buildings with sleek modern skyscrapers, creating fascinating contrasts around every corner.

We stopped in a tourist shop where I purchased a handheld fan to help combat the summer heat. Kiya, however, had her eyes fixed on the shop across the street. Once inside, she was definitely in a shopping mood! She happily let us allow her to be pushed and wandered through the store selecting souvenirs, and we decided to let her enjoy herself by choosing whatever she liked. Watching her excitement was every bit as enjoyable as the shopping itself.

Continuing our walk, we came across a section of London’s ancient Roman Wall. Built around AD 200, the wall once enclosed the city of Londinium and stretched for nearly two miles, protecting the Roman settlement for centuries. It’s incredible to think that pieces of it still stand nearly 1,800 years later.

Across the street stands 10 Trinity Square, one of London’s grandest historic buildings. Completed in 1922 as the headquarters of the Port of London Authority, it overlooks the Tower of London and was designed in the Beaux-Arts style by Sir Edwin Cooper. During the Second World War, General Dwight D. Eisenhower used the building as his headquarters while planning the D-Day landings. Today it has been transformed into a luxury hotel and residences while still retaining much of its original grandeur.

The building is richly decorated with allegorical sculptures that celebrate Britain’s role as a global maritime nation during the height of the British Empire. Around the exterior are large stone figures representing the four continents that were traditionally recognized at the time—Europe, Asia, Africa, and the Americas. Each continent is portrayed with symbolic objects and clothing that reflected how those regions were viewed in the early 20th century. Europe represents learning, government, and commerce; Asia symbolizes trade, culture, and luxury goods such as silk and spices; Africa is depicted through symbols of its wildlife, natural resources, and exploration; while the Americas represent agriculture, industry, and opportunity. Interspersed among these figures are sculptures representing Navigation, Commerce, Industry, and Seafaring, honoring the sailors, dockworkers, merchants, and explorers who helped make the Port of London one of the busiest ports in the world.

What immediately caught my eye, however, were the spectacular bronze sculptures crowning the roof. Massive horses pulling chariots appear to burst dramatically from the corners of the building, as though racing into the sky above London. These powerful quadriga sculptures symbolize triumph, progress, and Britain’s mastery of the seas. They are impossible to miss and add an incredible sense of movement and grandeur to an already stunning piece of architecture. It was one of those unexpected buildings that made us stop, stare, and appreciate the artistry that surrounds you throughout London.

Nearby we also passed St. Bartholomew-the-Great, London’s oldest parish church, founded in 1123. Standing quietly among the busy city streets, it was another reminder that history is woven into nearly every block of London.

Soon we reached the Tower of London. Since Mom had toured it on a previous visit, she knew many of the towers and stairways would not be accessible for Kiya’s transport chair, so we chose to admire the historic fortress from the outside instead. Built by William the Conqueror beginning in 1066, the Tower has served as a royal palace, prison, treasury, mint, and armory. It has witnessed nearly a thousand years of English history, from royal coronations to famous imprisonments and executions.

We made our way to Tower Pier to catch another Uber Boat. While we were waiting, I noticed a traditional tall sailing ship making its way up the Thames. I turned to Mom and said, “They’re going to have to raise Tower Bridge.” Sure enough, within minutes the roadway slowly lifted to allow the ship to pass beneath. At almost the same time, a beautiful replica paddlewheel steamer approached from the opposite direction. Watching the bridge rise and lower was surprisingly peaceful. I expected grinding machinery and loud motors, but instead it moved almost silently and with remarkable grace.

We boarded our Uber Boat and cruised back to St. George Wharf Pier near Vauxhall.

Our apartment had been in a wonderful location. Vauxhall Bridge, completed in 1906, is one of London’s oldest road bridges crossing the Thames. It connects Westminster with the Vauxhall district and is decorated with large bronze statues representing arts, sciences, engineering, agriculture, architecture, and local government. Just across the river sits the headquarters of MI6, the United Kingdom’s Secret Intelligence Service. The distinctive green glass building has become famous through numerous James Bond films. We joked that we were probably staying in one of the safest neighborhoods in London with MI6 just across the street keeping an eye on everything!

That evening we repacked our suitcases one final time and prepared for the next stage of our adventure. The following morning we would board the Eurostar, traveling beneath the English Channel and leaving England behind as we headed for Amsterdam. It was hard to believe how quickly our time in London had passed, but we were excited to see what awaited us in the Netherlands.

Stonehenge, Salisbury Cathedral, and the Magna Carta

As I am typing this, we have entered both France and Belgium on our way to Amsterdam. Before leaving England, however, we experienced one of the highlights of our trip.

On July 3, we took the train to Salisbury to visit Stonehenge. What an incredible experience!

The bus from Salisbury to Stonehenge included a running commentary about the surrounding countryside, villages, archaeology, and local history. We arrived around 11:00 a.m. and decided to take the shuttle directly to the stones while there was still some cloud cover. In hindsight, I wish we had visited the exhibition first. Understanding the burial mounds, ceremonial landscape, and the relationship between the monuments would have made our first walk around the stones even more meaningful.

What amazed me most was that every step around the circle revealed a completely different perspective. The way the stones lined up, the changing views, and the relationship to the surrounding burial grounds continually changed. It never looked the same twice. We spent nearly an hour and a half simply walking around the monument, taking photographs, and soaking it all in. It was one of the most peaceful places we have visited. I also have to say—I absolutely love Apple’s new photo feature that lets you erase people from pictures. It made capturing the monument feel almost timeless.

Once we understood what we were looking at, we began spotting burial mounds everywhere across the landscape. Archaeologists believe Stonehenge was once part of an enormous ceremonial complex connected to the nearby River Avon by a processional avenue. Thousands of years ago, the river is believed to have flowed at a higher level than it does today, creating an important ceremonial route between the river and the monument.

The engineering behind Stonehenge is almost impossible to comprehend. Some of the smaller bluestones were transported nearly 150 miles (240 km) from the Preseli Hills of Wales, likely by water and then over land. The larger sarsen stones, weighing as much as 25 tons each, were hauled from about 15 miles away. Just imagining the planning, manpower, and determination required is mind-blowing.

Even more impressive were the stone-working techniques. Many of the stones were carefully shaped and smoothed. The builders carved tenons—rounded projections on top of the upright stones—that fit perfectly into matching mortisescarved into the lintels resting above them. The docents explained that these joints weren’t actually necessary to hold the stones together because of their tremendous weight. Instead, they demonstrate the builders’ incredible craftsmanship and desire to create a monument that would last for generations. To construct nearly perfect circles, stack stones so precisely, and align the monument with the movements of the sun during the solstices over 4,500 years ago is simply astonishing.

Inside the visitor centre, we learned even more about the surrounding landscape. The artifacts recovered from nearby burial mounds were incredible, especially the beautifully crafted gold objects buried with people thousands of years ago. It is remarkable to realize how sophisticated these ancient societies truly were. I’ll try to upload a short video from the exhibition that explains the wider archaeological landscape around Stonehenge.

After our visit, we took the bus back into Salisbury and walked through the historic town toward Salisbury Cathedral. Before going inside, we noticed several spotting scopes set up outside. A group of birdwatchers was watching the resident peregrine falcons. We were able to observe a sleepy male perched high on the cathedral tower.

The cathedral itself has become an important home for these magnificent birds. According to the cathedral, peregrine falcons have nested there since at least 1864. They disappeared for many decades because of persecution and the widespread use of pesticides such as DDT, but they have successfully returned and once again raise chicks on the cathedral’s famous spire.

Walking inside the cathedral was breathtaking. Built between 1220 and 1258, Salisbury Cathedral is considered one of the finest examples of Early English Gothic architecture. Unlike many medieval cathedrals that took centuries to complete, the main body of Salisbury Cathedral was built in just 38 years, giving it an unusually unified architectural style. Its soaring spire, completed in the 14th century, remains the tallest surviving medieval church spire in Britain at 404 feet (123 meters). The rib-vaulted ceilings, elegant pointed arches, cloisters, and beautiful Chapter House supported by a single Purbeck marble column are truly magnificent. Everywhere you look there is another incredible detail to admire.

Our final stop was to see one of the cathedral’s greatest treasures—one of only four surviving original copies of the Magna Carta. It is considered the best-preserved copy in existence.

Seeing it in person was unforgettable.

Photography isn’t allowed, so you enter a dimly lit semicircular room where the document rests safely behind glass. The writing is remarkably clear, incredibly neat, and unbelievably tiny. Looking at a document written more than 800 years ago that helped shape constitutional government throughout much of the world is difficult to put into words. I’ll include photographs showing how the other surviving copies compare, many of which are faded or much harder to read.

Standing there, I couldn’t help but reflect on just how young the United States—and especially Montana—really are. People throughout Europe are often amazed when we tell them Montana is only 136 years old. Here, buildings, monuments, and documents are measured not in decades but in centuries and even millennia. It certainly puts history into perspective.

After such an incredible day filled with ancient engineering, medieval architecture, and one of the world’s most important historical documents, we caught our train back to London and happily crashed at the apartment for the evening.

Canals, Countryside, and Clarkson’s Farm

Our final full day with Alan and Moira was spent enjoying one of Britain’s most iconic experiences—a leisurely cruise on a narrowboat along the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Llangollen canal. Alan and Moira had rented the boat for the day, and we were joined by their son, Adrian, his daughter, Edie, and Eva, another granddaughter, making it a wonderful family outing.

Built by renowned engineer Thomas Telford and completed in 1805, the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is the highest navigable aqueduct in the world, standing 126 feet (38 meters) above the River Dee. Stretching over 1,000 feet long, it carries both narrowboats and pedestrians high above the valley below. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009 and is considered one of the greatest achievements of the Industrial Revolution.

It took a little while to get everyone aboard and go through the safety instructions, although Alan already knew how to operate a canal boat. Before long we encountered our first adventure—a true boat traffic jam! Canoe tours, boats returning to the marina, and our boat all trying to pass through the same narrow stretch created quite the bottleneck. We moored for a short while as everyone worked together to figure out the best way to maneuver around one another. There was plenty of smiling, waving, and patient waiting, reminding us that canal life moves at its own peaceful pace.

Once underway, the canal became incredibly tranquil. We slowly glided through the lush green countryside with birds singing overhead while ducks and graceful swans floated alongside us. It was easy to forget about schedules and simply enjoy the beauty surrounding us. Moira had packed a wonderful picnic lunch, which we enjoyed aboard as we drifted through the Welsh countryside.

After lunch, Mom and I walked across the magnificent Chirk Aqueduct, not realizing until we reached the opposite end that we had actually walked from Wales into England! The Chirk Aqueduct is a 70 foot (21 m) high and 710 foot (220 m) long navigable aqueduct that carries what is now the Llangollen Canal across the Ceiriog Valley near Chirk, on the England-Wales border, spanning two countries.

Standing on the narrow footpath with nothing but a railing separating us from the dramatic drop below was both exhilarating and unforgettable. The views across the valley were breathtaking, and I captured a couple of photographs that I already know will be framed when we get home.

We spent nearly six hours on the canal, from 10:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m., before cooling off with some well-earned ice cream. Afterward we returned to Alan and Moira’s home for dinner and spent the evening packing for the next leg of our adventure.

The following morning a hired driver picked us up for our journey from Manchester to Southampton. We had originally planned to travel by train, but engineering work had closed the line we needed. Our only rail option would have required traveling all the way to London before heading back south to Southampton, so hiring a driver made much more sense.

Since we were traveling by road, I asked if we could drive through the beautiful Cotswolds and stop at Diddly Squat Farm Shop, made famous by Jeremy Clarkson’s television series Clarkson’s Farm. The farm shop has become an unexpected tourist destination, selling produce and products made on the farm, including milk, cheese, honey, jams, sauces, beer, cider, and souvenirs. I wasn’t sure we would even make it into the parking lot, let alone inside the shop.

When we arrived, the queue stretched well beyond the entrance. I quickly realized there was no way we would get inside during the hour we had allowed. Our driver suggested speaking with the staff about Kiya’s wheelchair. After showing our Montana disability parking placard, they kindly allowed us to enter through the accessible queue. We were incredibly grateful for their understanding.

While waiting inside, a young man—probably around 18 or 20 years old—stood in front of me with an armful of products. He had grabbed nearly one of everything: milk, cheese, pasta sauce, crisps, and more. At one point he apologized for taking so long. I smiled and told him, “No need to apologize. You may only get here once, so make the most of it.” His excitement was contagious, and it perfectly captured how special the experience felt for so many visitors. We picked up a few souvenirs, snapped some photos, and continued our journey.

Along the drive we also passed through the historic city of Oxford, home to the world-famous University of Oxford, whose colleges have educated scholars, scientists, writers, and world leaders for nearly a thousand years. Even from the car, the city’s beautiful stone buildings and historic architecture were impressive.

We arrived in Southampton with plenty of time to grab a coffee and relax before boarding the ferry. Soon we were crossing the Solent toward the Isle of Wight, excited to begin another chapter of our adventure.

From Train Delays to Telescopes: A Day at Jodrell Bank

We arrived in Manchester in the middle of a heatwave, and the weather certainly made itself known. Our train journey was delayed because the rails had become so hot that trains were required to travel at a much slower speed for safety. It was an unusual reminder of how extreme temperatures can affect transportation.

Our arrival at Edinburgh Haymarket added a bit more excitement to the day. We had arranged assistance to get off the train with Kiya, but when we arrived no one was there. A glitch in the computer system had failed to notify the station staff that we needed assistance. What followed was an unforgettable exchange as the train conductor loudly accused the station employee of abandoning the train, while the station employee insisted they had never received the notification. After about five minutes of spirited debate, cooler heads prevailed, we safely made it off the train, and continued on our way. By then the train’s air conditioning had been overwhelmed by the heat, and we all stepped off looking like we had our own “train glow.”

Moira met us at the station with taxis waiting to take us back to her home. It was wonderful to finally relax, enjoy the cool breeze flowing through the house, and catch up over a lovely home-cooked dinner after a long day of travel.

The following day we visited Jodrell Bank Observatory, one of the world’s leading centers for radio astronomy and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Established in 1945 by Sir Bernard Lovell, Jodrell Bank has played a vital role in scientific discovery for decades. Its famous Lovell Telescope, completed in 1957, was the largest steerable radio telescope in the world at the time and remains one of Britain’s greatest engineering achievements. The telescope has tracked spacecraft, studied pulsars, quasars, and distant galaxies, and even helped monitor early space missions during the Space Race. Standing beneath it gives you a true appreciation for both the scale of the universe and the ingenuity required to explore it.

We wandered the beautiful grounds, enjoying a picnic lunch in the café, where the air conditioning was a welcome relief from the heat. They kindly allowed us to enjoy our picnic inside, which we greatly appreciated. We then explored the interactive Discovery Centre, filled with hands-on exhibits explaining radio astronomy, the search for extraterrestrial life, black holes, and the evolution of our universe. It was fascinating and engaging for visitors of all ages.

After lunch, Mom and I walked up to the Lovell Telescope. While we were standing there, we watched it move three separate times. First the massive base slowly rotated, then the enormous dish tilted, and finally both moved together. What amazed us most wasn’t the movement itself, but how incredibly quiet it was. I had expected loud clunks, grinding gears, and mechanical noises, yet this 3,200-ton structure glided almost silently into position. Watching such a gigantic machine move with such grace was one of the highlights of the day.

We finished the afternoon with a scenic drive through the Cheshire countryside before enjoying dinner at The Barn Owl Inn right along side a canal. Between the fascinating science, peaceful countryside, wonderful company, and delicious meal, it was the perfect way to spend another memorable day in England.

Inverness, Loch Ness, and Our Farewell to Scotland

Our final adventure in Scotland took us north to Inverness by way of Aberdeen. The plan was simple—or so we thought! We would spend one night in Inverness, take a cruise on Loch Ness, enjoy afternoon tea at Inverness Castle, tour the castle, wander through town, have dinner, explore a little more the next morning, and then return to Dundee before beginning the next leg of our journey.

Well… somewhere along the way, we completely messed up our dates.

We discovered our mistake when our VRBO sent us checkout instructions for the following morning—even though we hadn’t even arrived yet!  After a few moments of panic, we scrambled to find somewhere to stay for one extra night in Dundee after we returned. Thankfully, we found a room at the Four Points by Sheraton, conveniently located above the train station, and were able to change our train tickets to an earlier departure the next morning so we could make it back before checkout. Unfortunately, Pillow Partners wasn’t very accommodating, but thankfully everything worked out in the end. It certainly wasn’t how we planned to start our adventure!

Once all the logistics were sorted, we settled into enjoying Inverness.

Our cruise on Loch Ness was absolutely beautiful. Loch Ness stretches about 23 miles through the Scottish Highlands and reaches an astonishing depth of around 754 feet, making it one of the deepest lakes in the United Kingdom. Unlike Montana’s crystal-clear Flathead Lake, the waters of Loch Ness are incredibly dark and mysterious. The deep brown color comes from peat washed down from the surrounding hills, giving the loch its famous murky appearance.

It was impossible not to compare it with home.

Loch NessFlathead Lake
Scottish HighlandsNorthwestern Montana
23 miles long30 miles long
Up to 754 feet deepAbout 370 feet deep
Dark, peat-stained waterCrystal-clear mountain water
Home of the legendary NessieHome of “Flessie,” Montana’s own lake monster legend
Surrounded by ancient castles and rolling green hillsFramed by the spectacular Mission Mountains and Wild Horse Island

Kiya and I spent much of the cruise sitting on the lower level. We ventured outside for a while, but the Highland wind quickly convinced us to head back indoors. On the return trip, however, the clouds parted, the sun came out, and Kiya enjoyed a peaceful nap while I soaked in the scenery.

Our guide shared fascinating facts about the loch, including that just a few feet below the surface, the water becomes so dark that divers can quickly lose all sense of direction. No wonder legends of the Loch Ness Monster have survived for generations! Whether you believe in Nessie or not, there is certainly something mysterious about looking across that dark, endless water.

From the loch we hurried to Inverness Castle for afternoon tea.

This turned out to be one of my favorite parts of the day. For over an hour, we simply sat together enjoying delicious sandwiches, pastries, cakes, and tea while overlooking the River Ness. After several busy days of sightseeing, it was wonderful to slow down, relax, and simply enjoy being together.

The castle itself was another surprise. Unlike many of the medieval castles we had visited throughout Scotland, Inverness Castle has recently been transformed into a modern visitor experience celebrating the history, culture, and stories of the Highlands. While the outside still looks every bit the historic fortress overlooking the city, the interior has been beautifully renovated with interactive exhibits, immersive displays, and panoramic viewing areas. It was a very different experience from Edinburgh or Drum Castle, but one we thoroughly enjoyed.

After exploring, we walked to our VRBO and were pleasantly surprised—it was even nicer than the pictures! That almost never happens. It was elegantly decorated, had wonderfully comfortable beds and pillows (if you know, you know!), and the most comfortable couch where we relaxed for the evening while watching a little telly.

Before settling in for the night, we wandered through the city. We stopped at the famous Leakey’s Bookshop, Scotland’s largest secondhand bookstore, housed inside a converted 18th-century church complete with a roaring wood-burning stove and thousands upon thousands of books. Even though we didn’t buy anything, it was worth visiting just to experience the atmosphere.

Of course, no summer afternoon is complete without ice cream, so we treated ourselves before strolling through the charming Victorian Market, a beautifully restored indoor shopping arcade filled with local shops and cafés.

Dinner was another highlight. I had an incredibly delicious pork poke bowl while Mom enjoyed a flavorful stir fry. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful day.

The next morning our alarm came far too early. We caught the 7:00 a.m. train back to Dundee, grabbing coffee and pastries for breakfast before boarding. Because we had thoughtfully packed most of our luggage before leaving for Inverness, we were able to finish packing quickly once we arrived back in Dundee.

Our last-night hotel room at the Four Points was tiny but comfortable. We never did figure out how to adjust the room temperature or find the air conditioning, but after seven weeks of travel, we’ve learned to adapt!

With our bags packed, we spent one final afternoon exploring Dundee. We wandered through the city centre one last time before taking a taxi up to Dundee Law.

We asked our driver if he would wait while we explored and then take us back down, and without hesitation he agreed. Once again, we were reminded how incredibly kind and accommodating the taxi drivers throughout Scotland had been. Dundee has many wheelchair-accessible taxis where a wheelchair can simply roll into the back of the vehicle. Most of the time we transferred Kiya into a seat beside us, but this time she preferred to stay comfortably in her chair, and our driver couldn’t have been more patient.

Dundee Law was the perfect place to say goodbye to Scotland. Rising nearly 600 feet above the city, this extinct volcanic hill offers breathtaking 360-degree views across Dundee, the River Tay, and the surrounding countryside. Standing at the summit beside the impressive war memorial, we could see nearly every place we had explored during our stay.

Looking out over the city also reminded us of Dundee’s remarkable history. During the 19th century, Dundee became known as the “City of Jute, Jam, and Journalism.” Jute—a strong natural fiber imported primarily from India—was spun and woven into rope, sacks, and fabric in dozens of mills throughout the city. At one point, Dundee was the world’s largest producer of jute, and that industry shaped both the city’s skyline and its people for generations.

The panoramic views beneath a brilliant blue sky made it the perfect ending to our Scottish adventure.

Afterward, our driver dropped us at the Bank Bar for one last Scottish dinner. We enjoyed potato and leek soup along with halloumi fries served with sweet chili sauce.

I have officially become addicted to halloumi fries.

With full stomachs and grateful hearts, we returned to our hotel to prepare for the next chapter of our adventure. The following morning, we would leave Scotland behind and travel south to Manchester to spend time with Alan and Moira.

Scotland exceeded every expectation we had. The breathtaking landscapes, incredible history, friendly people, accessible transportation, and unforgettable experiences made this one of the most special places we have ever visited. While we were excited for what came next, none of us were quite ready to say goodbye.

One of our biggest compliments came just before we left. Throughout our stay, people would often ask us where we lived in Dundee. They assumed we were locals rather than visitors. As we stood on the platform with all of our luggage, one of the train attendants looked surprised and said, “I thought you lived here!” We laughed and explained that we had been visiting for the past week. Somehow, over those days, Dundee had begun to feel a little like home. There really couldn’t have been a better compliment or a more fitting way to say goodbye to Scotland.

A Perfect Day in St Andrews and Designing Our Own Islander Bags

Today we took the train from Dundee to the beautiful coastal town of St Andrews, just a short ride away. Best known as the “Home of Golf,” St Andrews is one of Scotland’s oldest and most historic towns. It is home to the world-famous Old Course, where golf has been played for over 600 years, and to the prestigious University of St Andrews, founded in 1413. It is also where Prince William and Catherine Middleton first met while attending university. Beyond golf, St Andrews is filled with medieval streets, charming shops, ancient ruins, beautiful beaches, and a relaxed seaside atmosphere.

Our wonderful taxi driver, Adam, met us at the station and drove us into town. He was absolutely perfect for us. From the moment we climbed into his taxi, we were chatting and laughing like old friends who had known each other for years. It is amazing how quickly genuine kindness can make a place feel like home. Before dropping us off, Adam assured us he would return later to take us back to the train station. Having transportation arranged made the entire day completely stress-free.

Our main adventure was visiting the Islander workshop to design our very own Harris Tweed bags. Islander is a Scottish company that creates customizable handbags and accessories handcrafted with authentic Harris Tweed—a beautiful wool fabric handwoven by islanders in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides. Every bag is individually designed by the customer, allowing you to choose the body, flap, straps, handles, and hardware to create something completely unique. We choose the St. Andrew’s shop as we figured it would be quieter than the shops in Edinburgh. Boy, was I correct. Besides us there was one other person making a bag.

The moment we walked through the door, Kiya knew exactly what she wanted to do. While Mom and I began the difficult task of choosing colors and styles, Kiya happily settled in to watch one of her movies. It was the perfect outing for her.

Choosing our bags was much harder than we expected! There were so many gorgeous fabrics, leather colors, straps, handles, and hardware combinations that it almost became overwhelming—in the best possible way. I really wish I had taken a picture of the enormous display wall filled with every imaginable color and pattern. I’ve included a few photos from the internet because they give a much better idea of just how many options there were.

We started by selecting the style of bag we wanted before moving on to choosing the Harris Tweed fabric for the body. Next came the leather flap, handles, shoulder strap, and all the finishing touches. Piece by piece, our bags slowly came together into something that was uniquely ours.

It was such a fun experience—not simply buying a souvenir, but creating one that will always remind us of Scotland. If I had more room in my suitcase, I probably would have made several more!

After finishing our bags, we enjoyed lunch and spent the afternoon wandering through the charming streets of St Andrews. The town has such a relaxed pace, with beautiful stone buildings, colorful storefronts, and little shops around every corner. It felt like the kind of place where you could spend days simply exploring.

At the end of the afternoon, true to his word, Adam returned to pick us up and drive us back to the train station. It was one of those wonderfully simple days—good conversation, creative fun, beautiful scenery, and time spent together. Days like this often become the ones you remember most.

Kiya had an absolutely perfect day, and honestly, so did we.

Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile – Crowns, Castles, and a Perfect Scottish Day

Today we took the train from Dundee into Edinburgh to visit the magnificent Edinburgh Castle and wander down the famous Royal Mile. Once again, I have to say how impressed we are with ScotRail and the people of Scotland. Everyone is so kind and helpful, making sure Kiya safely gets on and off the train with the ramps. Their kindness has made traveling with a wheelchair so much easier than we ever imagined.

After arriving in Edinburgh, our next challenge was finding a taxi. The castle is actually quite close to the train station, but it sits high on Castle Rock, making the steep climb difficult with Kiya’s wheelchair. We waited nearly 30–40 minutes before finally finding a driver willing to take us. He dropped us only about a block from the entrance, which was perfect.

One thing Edinburgh Castle does exceptionally well is accessibility. After checking in, we met the mobility assistance staff, who transported us by vehicle to the top of the castle. They have an outstanding program where they can either drop visitors off at the top or drive them between the major buildings throughout the grounds. We decided to let our taxi go and simply enjoy walking our way down through the castle after exploring. It was a wonderful decision.

Perched atop an extinct volcano, Edinburgh Castle has watched over Scotland for nearly 900 years. It has served as a royal residence, military fortress, prison, and symbol of Scottish independence. Some of Scotland’s most famous monarchs, including Mary, Queen of Scots, lived within its walls, and the castle has endured countless sieges throughout its remarkable history. Standing on its ancient stone walls while looking across the city, it is easy to understand why this fortress has become one of Scotland’s most recognizable landmarks.

The castle itself is spread across four different levels, each filled with fascinating buildings, museums, monuments, and breathtaking viewpoints overlooking Edinburgh. Everywhere we turned there seemed to be another incredible view of the city below. The architecture and engineering of the fortress are simply remarkable.

One place we absolutely wanted to visit was the Crown Room to see the Honours of Scotland—the Crown, Sceptre, and Sword of State. These are the oldest Crown Jewels in Britain and remain priceless symbols of Scotland’s history. The gold crown, adorned with precious gems, was created for King James V and first worn in 1540. Mary, Queen of Scots, became the first monarch to be crowned using both the crown and sceptre together in 1543. During Oliver Cromwell’s invasion, the Honours were secretly hidden to keep them from falling into enemy hands. After the 1707 Act of Union, they were locked away and forgotten until the famous author Sir Walter Scott rediscovered them in 1818.

There was an enormous line waiting to enter the Crown Room, but once again accessibility made all the difference. We were told to find a staff member wearing a black shirt and name tag. Because Kiya uses a wheelchair and could not navigate the stairs, they escorted us to an elevator that brought us directly behind the Crown Jewels exhibit. We were able to take our time, quietly admire the treasures without feeling rushed, and then they escorted us back down the lift.

No matter how many words I try to use, they simply don’t do justice to what we saw. The crown and sceptre were mind-blowingly beautiful—majestic, exquisite, and unlike anything I have ever seen. The brilliance of the jewels, the rich colors, and the incredible craftsmanship made them feel almost unreal. It was one of those moments that photographs simply cannot capture. I feel incredibly fortunate to have seen them in person.

We continued wandering through the castle grounds, and Kiya had a wonderful day. We also visited the National War Museum of Scotland. It was filled with fascinating military history, although the close crowds inside made Kiya quickly decide she was ready to move on. Sometimes that’s just how traveling goes!

One fun surprise during my very quick walk through the museum was finding information about Sergeant Shetland, the miniature horse whose military service we had learned about while visiting Dundee. It was completely unexpected and made me smile to see another connection between our adventures across Scotland.

After several hours exploring the castle, we slowly made our way down the Royal Mile. The centuries-old buildings, statues, closes, and beautiful architecture lined every step. We wandered through several gift shops, soaking in the atmosphere before eventually making our way back to Waverley Station for the train ride home to Dundee.

Another day filled with history, breathtaking scenery, wonderful people, and memories that will stay with us forever.

Scotland, Castles, Kilts, and the Freedom of Dundee

This would make a wonderful blog post. Here’s a polished version that keeps your storytelling voice while improving flow and readability.

Title: Scotland, Castles, Kilts, and the Freedom of Dundee

Scotland has been amazing. We have spent our time exploring Dundee, Aberdeen, and the beautiful countryside that connects them. The buildings are absolutely stunning. If you continue following our journey, you are probably going to hear me say that over and over again. I love the architecture here—the stone buildings, castles, churches, and centuries of history around every corner.

Dundee has been a wonderful base for our adventures. The city center is just down the hill from where we are staying, although I should mention that it is quite a steep hill! The taxis have been easy to use, and several have wheelchair-accessible vehicles. Sometimes Kiya rides secured in her chair, and other times she sits beside us. The train system has been fantastic. ScotRail provides ramps, and the staff have been incredibly helpful. One thing we have noticed is that we do not see many people with disabilities out and about compared to what we are used to at home. We have especially enjoyed watching the Scottish countryside roll by from the train windows. I will post more picture below.

One of our favorite day trips was to Aberdeen, where we visited Drum Castle. After enjoying lunch and, of course, more scones (I am fairly certain we have eaten our height in scones by now), I took a guided tour of the castle while Mom stayed with Kiya because of the many stairs.

Drum Castle has a fascinating history and remained a family home until 1976. The two main bedrooms were eventually modernized to such an extent that they no longer matched the rest of the castle, so they were converted into an art gallery. One of my favorite stories involved a particularly arrogant young owner with bright ginger hair. Historians believe he had quite an ego because he commissioned an enormous portrait of himself as an angel and hung it in the library and great hall for everyone to admire. Apparently self-confidence was not in short supply!

While in Aberdeen, we experienced a small crisis—we lost one of Kiya’s shoes. If you know the Tartan Army in Boston or our Florida friends, I want to give a huge thank you to Kiya’s army of supporters. These were her favorite shoes, and so many people immediately jumped in to help. Special thanks to Diane, Kristy, and Erin, who have already arranged for replacement pairs to be waiting for us when we return home. We are incredibly grateful.

The art gallery was hosting an exhibition of ash wood artwork, and I was captivated by the pieces. The craftsmanship was exquisite, with each creation highlighting the natural beauty of the wood. It was amazing to see how artists could transform a simple piece of ash into something so elegant and detailed. Set within the historic castle, the exhibit felt like a perfect blend of Scotland’s past and present.

Back in Dundee, we stumbled upon what turned out to be one of the best experiences of our trip.

Mom spotted four young men wearing kilts walking through the city center. Naturally, we did what everyone around us did not do—we followed them. Now, keep in mind that they were moving at the speed of light while we were moving at the speed of pudding. We kept our eyes fixed on their heads as they stayed about a block and a half ahead of us.

Eventually, they led us toward a local high school. Curious, we asked a traffic inspector what was happening and learned that preparations were underway for the Royal Regiment of Scotland’s Freedom of Dundee ceremony.

Suddenly, we found ourselves standing right where the regiment was assembling. I was able to film the soldiers and bagpipers as they marched past us. Later, we returned to the city center and found barriers set up around City Square. I stationed Mom and Kiya along the fence while I found a spot to record the procession entering the city.

What followed was an incredible ceremony. I am struggling to post videos on here so I will post on Facebook.

On June 20, 2026, the Royal Regiment of Scotland was granted the Freedom of the City of Dundee—the first military unit to receive the honor in more than seventy years. The last regiment to receive the distinction was the Black Watch in 1954.

The Freedom of the City is one of the highest honors a city can bestow. Dating back to medieval times, it traditionally granted military units the right to march through the city with “drums beating, colours flying, and bayonets fixed.” Today, it symbolizes the trust, respect, and enduring bond between a city and those who serve it.

The Royal Regiment of Scotland, formed in 2006, is the senior infantry regiment of the British Army and carries forward more than 390 years of Scottish military heritage. Their motto, Nemo Me Impune Lacessit—”No one provokes me with impunity”—is shared with Scotland’s highest order of chivalry, the Order of the Thistle.

The regiment has served around the world, including Afghanistan, Iraq, Bosnia, Northern Ireland, Cyprus, Africa, and the Caribbean, while also supporting disaster relief efforts and assisting communities during floods, wildfires, and the COVID-19 pandemic.

As the soldiers marched through the streets accompanied by the sound of bagpipes echoing between the historic buildings, it felt like we had stepped into a piece of living history. What started as following a few young men in kilts turned into witnessing a once-in-a-generation event.

Without a doubt, it was one of the best experiences of our trip so far.

Sometimes the most memorable adventures are the ones you never planned.

That post perfectly captures the unexpected moments that make travel special. The image of following the kilts “at the speed of pudding” is especially memorable!