Baranet

The Louvre, Mona Lisa, and Rodin

Our next adventure was one I had been looking forward to for years—the Louvre.

The day didn’t exactly start smoothly. We had arranged for a taxi, but instead of pulling up where we were waiting, the driver parked somewhere else and expected us to find him. With a 9:00 a.m. timed entry reservation, every minute mattered, and we were beginning to think we were going to miss it.

Fortunately, we arrived just in time. Once the staff saw Kiya’s transport chair, they graciously moved us to the front of the entry line, and within minutes we were inside the world’s largest art museum.

I had one goal to start the day—head straight to the Mona Lisa before the museum filled with visitors.

The Louvre is enormous, and it took a bit of navigating through elevators and long hallways before we finally reached her gallery. At first, we joined the regular line and slowly made our way toward the viewing area. Then Mom noticed a small sign indicating accessible access for wheelchair users.

As we made our way toward it, one of the attendants came over to meet us.

She smiled and led us around the crowds to the accessible viewing area, where we were able to stand only about five feet from Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. Behind us, the general crowd was held back roughly fifteen feet from the painting.

The attendant told us to take all the time we wanted.

She even offered to take our family photos, making sure we had pictures together in front of one of the most famous paintings in the world. It was such a thoughtful act of kindness, and it transformed what could have been a stressful experience into one of the highlights of our trip.

After spending time with the Mona Lisa, we wandered through gallery after gallery for the next several hours.

The Louvre is almost overwhelming in both its size and its collection. We searched for masterpieces by Michelangelo, admired works by Rodin, found paintings by Van Gogh, and eventually made our way to one of the museum’s most famous sculptures—the Venus de Milo.

Finding her turned into a bit of an adventure.

Several elevators had been shut down because of the extreme heat, so we found ourselves taking detours through different wings of the museum before finally arriving at the gallery. Like so much of the Louvre, the journey itself introduced us to countless unexpected works of art along the way.

The heat became such a concern that the Louvre announced it would close early at 4:00 p.m. to help protect both visitors and staff. We ended up being among the very last visitors to leave the museum that afternoon.

Before heading home, we wandered through the shops surrounding the Louvre and treated ourselves to refreshing sorbet—a perfect way to cool down after hours of walking through galleries.

Then another unexpected adventure began.

Rather than taking the underground passage, we tried to exit through one of the shopping areas, only to discover that the elevators we needed were no longer operating. We were told to return to the Louvre and use its elevators instead.

The security guards weren’t entirely convinced that was allowed.

After several conversations, they checked with the Louvre staff, who graciously welcomed us back inside.

Walking back into the museum after it had closed was one of the most surreal moments of our entire trip.

The galleries were silent.

The crowds were gone.

We rode the elevators back up beneath the famous glass pyramid, and for the first time all day there was no one around. Looking up through the pyramid without hundreds of tourists filling the space was something very few visitors ever experience. I was able to take some incredible photographs of the pyramid completely unobstructed—pictures that would have been impossible just an hour earlier.

Outside, we noticed quite a few disappointed visitors arriving for afternoon entry, unaware that the museum had already closed because of the extreme temperatures.

From there we began the long walk back toward our apartment, making our way via the Eiffel Tower. Along the way we found a restaurant just a short walk from its base and enjoyed dinner while admiring one of the world’s most recognizable landmarks. We took plenty of photographs, knowing that the following day the tower and surrounding area would be closed for Bastille Day celebrations and the evening fireworks.

We decided we needed to eat a meal out and treat ourselves. There was a restaurant on the corner by our apartment. We walked in the door and almost walked right back out. All the wait staff was dress in fancy black suits and dresses. The place had mirrors and lighting everywhere. Everyone else is dressed in very nice dinner clothes. We stumble in hot sweaty and in our street clothes. They were so gracious and served us like we were in formal wear. We had an amazing meal and had a berry pavlova for desert. After dinner we continued our walk back to the apartment.

Unfortunately, our apartment remained the biggest disappointment of our stay in Paris. It stayed unbearably hot no matter what we tried, making it difficult to relax after long days of sightseeing. We found ourselves spending as little time there as possible, treating it simply as a place to sleep before heading back out to explore another corner of this remarkable city.

A Grand Welcome to Paris

After our wonderful time in Brussels, it was time to board the train for Paris.

Of course, no travel day would be complete without a little excitement.

We had several snafus trying to get a taxi to the train station and were convinced we had missed our train. Just when we were resigning ourselves to figuring out new tickets, I received an email saying our train had been delayed. Talk about relief!

The taxi driver was wonderful. Knowing we had a mountain of luggage and that the train station entrance was surrounded by uneven cobblestones, I asked if he could help us get everything closer to the door. He happily did, saving us a great deal of effort.

As it turned out, our train was delayed nearly 50 minutes. Then, just before boarding, the railway combined two completely full trains into one. It instantly became a mad dash for seats. Mom quickly found a set of seats while I loaded all of our luggage aboard. Had she not claimed them when she did, we would have been standing for the entire two-hour journey to Paris.

When we arrived, we were greeted by our wonderful driver and guide, Nesrine. Instead of simply taking us to our apartment, we had arranged for her to spend the afternoon showing us some of Paris’s most famous landmarks. Considering the oppressive summer heat, climbing into her wonderfully air-conditioned van felt like heaven.

Our first stop was Montmartre.

I had hoped we would somehow make it to this famous hilltop neighborhood but wasn’t quite sure how we would manage it with Kiya and all of our transportation needs. Thanks to Nesrine, we didn’t have to worry about any of that.

Montmartre has been the artistic heart of Paris for centuries, once home to famous painters such as Picasso, Renoir, and Van Gogh. Its winding cobblestone streets, cafés, artists painting portraits in the square, and panoramic views over Paris make it one of the city’s most beloved neighborhoods.

At the summit stands the magnificent Basilica of Sacré-Cœur. Construction began in 1875 and was completed in 1914. Built from a unique white travertine stone that actually becomes brighter over time, the basilica almost glows against the Paris skyline. Inside, one of the world’s largest mosaics depicts Christ in Majesty, and visitors from around the world come to admire both its beauty and its breathtaking views across the city.

One thing I particularly enjoyed was all of the outdoor cafés equipped with cooling mist systems. With temperatures soaring, the gentle mist made sitting outside surprisingly comfortable.

One fascinating thing we learned was about the guest rooms operated by the basilica. Pilgrims and visitors can stay overnight for a modest donation—far less than a typical Paris hotel. The accommodations are intentionally simple, often consisting of little more than a bed and basic furnishings, providing an affordable option for travelers and those seeking a quiet place for reflection in one of the world’s most expensive cities.

From there, Nesrine drove us to the Arc de Triomphe.

Pictures simply cannot prepare you for its size.

Commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 after his victory at Austerlitz, the monument honors those who fought and died for France during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. The massive relief sculptures carved into each side depict scenes of courage, sacrifice, and victory, while the names of hundreds of French generals are engraved into the stone. Beneath the arch lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from World War I, where the Eternal Flame has burned continuously since 1923 in remembrance of those who never returned home. Standing beneath the enormous vaulted ceiling and looking up at the intricate carvings was truly awe-inspiring.

The rest of the afternoon felt like a whirlwind tour of Paris.

We admired the newly restored Notre-Dame Cathedral, whose stunning Gothic architecture once again dominates the Île de la Cité after years of restoration. We stopped at the Eiffel Tower, which somehow manages to be even more impressive in person than in photographs.

We crossed the beautiful Pont Alexandre III, often considered Paris’s most ornate bridge. Built for the 1900 World’s Fair, it is famous for its gilded winged horses, elaborate Art Nouveau lamps, and magnificent sculptures celebrating French art, science, commerce, and industry.

We also drove past both the Grand Palais and Petit Palais, two architectural masterpieces also built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Their magnificent glass roofs, grand columns, and richly decorated façades showcase the elegance of Paris during the Belle Époque.

Everywhere we looked there seemed to be another famous monument, another beautiful boulevard, or another breathtaking building. It was an incredible introduction to one of the world’s great cities.

Eventually Nesrine dropped us off at our VRBO.

Unfortunately, the apartment itself was a disappointment. It was extremely hot, and we quickly discovered there were several issues—including not having any toilet paper for three of our four days there. More on that adventure later.

After such a long day of travel and sightseeing, we were exhausted. Rather than heading back out into the heat, I ordered groceries and dinner through Uber Eats, and we settled in for the evening.

Despite the apartment’s shortcomings, our first afternoon in Paris had been unforgettable. Thanks to Nesrine, we had already fallen a little in love with the City of Light before we’d even unpacked our suitcases.

Brussels: Chocolate, Gold, and Grand Places

After leaving Amsterdam, which we absolutely loved—well, we definitely loved the cheese!—we headed south to Brussels. It was a short train ride, and before long we had arrived at our apartment just a block from the famous Grand Place.

Once we got settled, we let Kiya take a well-earned nap while Mom rested. Since she was sleeping peacefully, I took about an hour to wander through the surrounding neighborhoods on my own. Brussels is a city that invites you to get wonderfully lost. The streets are narrow and packed tightly together, with every block lined by cafés, restaurants, chocolate shops, boutiques, and little alleyways that seem to hide even more treasures. Everywhere I turned there was another beautiful building or another shop calling me inside.

When Kiya woke up, we headed out for dinner, only to discover the apartment elevator had stopped working. Unfortunately, we were staying four flights up. We immediately contacted our host and hoped it would be repaired quickly.

Fortunately, getting Kiya downstairs wasn’t too difficult. Getting her back up those four flights afterward would have been another story entirely.

Mom walked to a restaurant just up the street and explained our predicament. She told them our granddaughter was essentially stranded because of the broken elevator. They couldn’t have been kinder. They prepared our meals to go and, while chatting with Mom, shared one of the best recommendations of our stay—they told us that the Royal Palace was open to visitors.

That evening we also wandered through the Grand Place. I had seen countless photographs before arriving, but nothing compares to standing there in person. Dating back to the 11th century, the Grand Place has been the heart of Brussels for nearly a thousand years and is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is surrounded by magnificent guildhalls whose richly decorated facades are covered in gold leaf, sculptures, and elaborate carvings. The Gothic Town Hall, with its soaring spire, dominates one side of the square, while the King’s House (Maison du Roi) stands opposite. As the evening light reflected off the gold detailing, the entire square seemed to glow. It is easily one of the most beautiful city squares we have visited anywhere in Europe.

The elevator, however, still wasn’t fixed when we returned to the apartment.

The next morning we took an Uber to the Royal Palace of Brussels. Each summer, after Belgium’s King and Queen leave for their summer residence, the palace opens its doors to the public for several weeks. Although it remains the King’s official administrative residence and is used for state ceremonies and official receptions, the royal family does not actually live there.

Walking through the palace was almost beyond comprehension.

Room after room revealed soaring ceilings, enormous crystal chandeliers, elaborate fireplaces, priceless paintings, intricate tapestries, and beautifully set dining tables. Every room seemed grander than the last. One of the most fascinating spaces was the Hall of Mirrors, whose ceiling was decorated with thousands of shimmering jewel beetle wing cases, creating an iridescent work of art unlike anything we had ever seen.

Because Kiya uses a transport chair, we were able to access areas of the palace that required using a lift. The staff could not have been more gracious, patiently guiding us through the accessible routes and making sure we were able to enjoy as much of the palace as possible. Their kindness made the visit even more memorable.

After spending several hours exploring the palace, we returned to the Grand Place. Along the way we noticed people being driven around the city in small electric sightseeing cars. It looked like so much fun that we tracked them down and booked a ride ourselves. It turned out to be one of the best ways to see Brussels. We cruised through neighborhoods we might never have found on foot while learning interesting bits of history from our driver.

Back on foot, we spent the rest of the afternoon doing what Brussels does best—chocolate tasting! If Amsterdam had been all about cheese, Brussels was all about chocolate. Nearly every chocolate shop welcomed visitors with generous samples, making it nearly impossible to walk past without stopping. We happily accepted the challenge, tasting pralines, truffles, dark chocolate, milk chocolate, and several Belgian specialties before picking out a few favorites to bring home.

We wandered through the shopping districts, browsed boutiques, and discovered another little cultural difference. In many of the shops, especially those selling scarves, jewelry, and accessories, the items on display are simply samples. When you decide what you’d like to purchase, the shopkeeper retrieves a brand-new one from storage rather than handing you the display item. It was a shopping experience we hadn’t encountered before.

We finished the day with dinner at a wonderful Greek restaurant before taking one last stroll through the neighborhoods surrounding the Grand Place. Brussels is an incredibly compact city, making it easy to explore on foot. I’ll include an aerial photo because it’s the best way to appreciate just how closely everything is woven together. Street after street is filled with beautiful architecture, inviting shops, cafés, and hidden courtyards just waiting to be explored.

Looking back, we probably could have spent another day or two in Brussels. We certainly packed every minute full, but there was still so much left to see. That evening we returned to the apartment, repacked the few bags we had opened, and prepared for our next destination—Paris.

Windmills, Waterways, and Wheels of Cheese

We woke up a little sad to be leaving London. It had been everything we hoped it would be and more. Before long, though, it was time to begin the next chapter of our adventure—the Netherlands.

We made our way to St. Pancras International Station for the Eurostar. I had booked travel assistance online two days earlier, but once again there was no one to be found. By this point, we weren’t surprised. We loaded ourselves onto the train, settled into our seats, and prepared for another journey.

This train ride turned out to be one of our favorites. Shortly after departure we were served a light breakfast with pastries, juice, and coffee. It felt like such a relaxing way to travel. Before long we passed through several tunnels, and then suddenly we were entering the Channel Tunnel, better known as the Chunnel. Stretching over 31 miles (50 kilometers), it is the longest underwater tunnel in the world and connects England with France beneath the English Channel. It was amazing to think we were traveling beneath the sea.

We arrived in Brussels, where we transferred to another train bound for Amsterdam. From there, our Uber driver picked us up and drove us to our home for the next few days—a houseboat on the edge of a peaceful lake.

Getting inside was our first adventure. The front door had swollen from the moisture and refused to open. After about 15 to 20 minutes of pushing, pulling, and a lot of determination, we finally made it inside. Reaching the boat also meant navigating a long, narrow dock, which kept us on our toes with all of our luggage and Kiya’s transport chair.

Once inside, however, every bit of effort was worth it.

It was one of the most peaceful places we’ve stayed. The houseboat sat quietly on the water overlooking a beautiful lake, with birds gliding past and boats gently drifting by. Our bedrooms were actually below the waterline. It felt perfectly normal—until you stopped and remembered you were sleeping underwater! It was definitely one of the most unique accommodations we’ve ever experienced.

We intentionally spent our first full day close to the houseboat. After weeks of constant sightseeing, we all needed a morning to sleep in and recharge. We wandered through the nearby town of Aalsmeer, located about a ten-minute walk from our VRBO. The town was charming, with canals, cafés, and friendly neighborhoods. Known worldwide for its enormous flower auction—the largest in the world—Aalsmeer has long been at the center of the international flower trade. We enjoyed exploring the town before finishing the day with an excellent dinner at a local restaurant.

The following day we headed into Amsterdam. We spent hours simply wandering the city, taking in the beautiful canals, narrow historic buildings, bicycles everywhere, and the lively atmosphere. One of the highlights was taking a canal cruise through the neighborhoods. Seeing Amsterdam from the water gave us a completely different perspective on the city and its remarkable 17th-century canal system, which has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Of course, no trip to the Netherlands would be complete without tasting Dutch cheese. Between Amsterdam and Zaanse Schans, I think we sampled just about every cheese available! Gouda, Edam, smoked cheeses, herb cheeses, garlic cheeses, truffle cheeses—you name it, we probably tried it. Every cheese shop welcomed visitors with generous samples, making it nearly impossible to walk out without buying a few favorites. Let’s just say we were definitely not hungry while shopping!

As we explored, we came upon a peaceful protest where members of the Tibetan community and their supporters were calling for China to end its occupation of Tibet. It was another reminder that cities often become gathering places where people from around the world come together to peacefully share their voices and stories.

Our final full day in the Netherlands began with an early start so we could attend the famous Edam Cheese Market. What a joyful experience! Dating back centuries, the traditional cheese market recreates how farmers and merchants once traded Edam’s world-famous cheese. Men dressed in traditional white clothing carried large wheels of cheese on wooden stretchers while buyers and sellers demonstrated the historic bargaining process. It was such a wonderful way to preserve and celebrate Dutch heritage, and the entire town embraced the tradition. Watching the cheese carriers in action made us appreciate just how important cheese has been to Dutch culture for hundreds of years.

After exploring Edam, we continued on to Zaanse Schans, one of the Netherlands’ most famous historic villages. It feels like stepping back into the 18th and 19th centuries, with working windmills, traditional wooden houses painted green, artisan workshops, and peaceful canals. The windmills once powered industries ranging from sawmills and oil production to spice grinding and paint manufacturing, helping fuel the Dutch Golden Age.

We wandered through the village, watched the windmills turning in the breeze, browsed the artisan shops, and of course sampled even more cheese. By then I think we had officially tasted nearly every variety the Netherlands had to offer! We enjoyed a wonderful lunch before spending the afternoon exploring the historic buildings and soaking in the beautiful countryside. It was easy to understand why this is one of the country’s most visited destinations.

That evening we returned to our floating home, finished the leftovers in the refrigerator, packed our suitcases once again, and prepared for our next destination—Brussels.

Each country we’ve visited has had its own unique personality, but the Netherlands stole a little piece of our hearts. Between the peaceful canals, centuries-old windmills, welcoming people, incredible cheese, and the slower pace of life, it was a place that invited you to slow down, breathe deeply, and simply enjoy the moment.

Boats, Bakeries, and Breathtaking Views of London

One of the things we were most excited to experience in London was traveling by Uber Boat along the River Thames. Instead of navigating crowded streets, we started our day cruising down the river to Westminster Pier. What an easy way to get around London.

From there we walked around Big Ben, officially known as the Elizabeth Tower, and admired the magnificent Westminster Abbey. Seeing both landmarks in person was surreal after seeing them in countless books, documentaries, and television programs over the years. Big Ben has the best sound. I kept trying to get a video but was not successful.

We then boarded Thames Sightseeing Boat for the trip upriver to Greenwich. The young man providing the onboard commentary absolutely made the journey. He was hilarious! His commentary was packed with witty jokes, sarcastic remarks, and fascinating history. If you weren’t paying attention, you missed half the punchlines. We enjoyed him so much that we left him a tip when we disembarked.

The cruise itself was beautiful. As we floated along the Thames, we passed centuries of history—bridges, warehouses converted into apartments, royal buildings, and famous landmarks. At one point we even cruised past a former home owned by Cher. It’s probably the closest I’ll ever get to meeting her since COVID canceled the concert I had tickets to years ago!

As soon as we arrived in Greenwich, we stopped at a small neighborhood bakery. We picked up a pain aux raisins, two fruit scones, and a sour cherry loaf. I’m so glad we stopped first because when we returned later that afternoon, nearly everything had sold out.

Our next stop was Greenwich Market, one of London’s oldest markets, dating back to the 1700s. Today it’s filled with local artisans, handmade crafts, antiques, artwork, clothing, and an incredible variety of food vendors. Mom chose a green curry with rice while I enjoyed a delicious Moroccan chicken wrap. Afterwards we wandered through the market, browsing the unique shops and stalls. Mom surprised me by buying the funkiest pair of earrings. I was so proud of her for stepping outside her comfort zone! Then I wandered into an equally quirky shoe store. We continued walking, but when we passed it a second time I finally admitted, “I’ll regret not buying something.” Sure enough, I walked out with two wonderfully funky pairs of shoes.

Our biggest adventure of the day was hiking up the steep hill through Greenwich Park to the Royal Observatory. I do mean hiking—it was a nonstop uphill climb! At the top sits the observatory founded in 1675 by King Charles II. It became one of the world’s most important centers for astronomy and navigation. The observatory is home to the Great Equatorial Telescope, installed in 1893. At the time it was one of the largest refracting telescopes in Britain, allowing astronomers to study planets, stars, and nebulae in remarkable detail. Standing beneath its massive dome, it was easy to appreciate how much of our understanding of the universe began in places like this.

Just to the side of the observatory is one of the most famous lines in the world—the Prime Meridian (0° longitude). This imaginary line divides the Earth into the Eastern and Western Hemispheres and serves as the reference point for world longitude and Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), from which all global time zones are measured. Of course, we had to stand with one foot in the Western Hemisphere and one in the Eastern Hemisphere!

The views overlooking London from the observatory were spectacular and well worth every burning muscle it took to get there. We did notice signs warning visitors about pickpockets, so we kept a close eye on our belongings while exploring.

Going back down the hill was almost as exciting as climbing it. The path was incredibly steep. I leaned back while holding Kiya’s transport chair with both brakes partially engaged to control our speed. We certainly made quick work of the descent!

After spending more time wandering Greenwich’s charming streets, we returned to the river and boarded another boat back to Westminster Pier. From there we crossed the Thames to ride the London Eye.

Kiya absolutely loved the ride—except for the very top! Being that high in the air wasn’t quite her favorite part. The slow rotation gave us incredible panoramic views stretching across London in every direction, and the air-conditioned capsule was a welcome break after another warm day of sightseeing.

Afterward we enjoyed dinner at a cozy Italian restaurant before heading back to the river, expecting to catch our Uber Boat home. That’s when we discovered our final adventure of the day—boats no longer traveled back to our pier in the evening. After quite a bit of asking questions, checking routes, and trying to figure out our options, we finally hailed a taxi and made it back to the apartment around 9:00 p.m.

By then Kiya was completely exhausted, and honestly, so were we. It had been another full day of exploring, laughing, learning, and making memories in one of the world’s greatest cities.

A Final Day in London

Our last day in London began with a taxi ride to Leadenhall Market, one of the city’s most beautiful covered markets. Dating back to the 14th century, the market stands on the site of what was once Roman London and was redesigned in 1881 by architect Sir Horace Jones, who also designed Tower Bridge and Smithfield Market. Its colorful Victorian ironwork, ornate roof, and cobbled walkways make it one of London’s architectural treasures.

Harry Potter fans will recognize Leadenhall Market immediately. It served as the filming location for Diagon Alley in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. The blue-fronted optician at Bull’s Head Passage was transformed into the entrance to the Leaky Cauldron, making it a must-see destination for fans of the series.

We wandered through the market, admiring the architecture before settling in for a lovely lasagna lunch. Afterwards we strolled through the surrounding neighborhoods toward the Tower of London. Along the way we found ourselves constantly looking up. London has an incredible way of blending centuries-old buildings with sleek modern skyscrapers, creating fascinating contrasts around every corner.

We stopped in a tourist shop where I purchased a handheld fan to help combat the summer heat. Kiya, however, had her eyes fixed on the shop across the street. Once inside, she was definitely in a shopping mood! She happily let us allow her to be pushed and wandered through the store selecting souvenirs, and we decided to let her enjoy herself by choosing whatever she liked. Watching her excitement was every bit as enjoyable as the shopping itself.

Continuing our walk, we came across a section of London’s ancient Roman Wall. Built around AD 200, the wall once enclosed the city of Londinium and stretched for nearly two miles, protecting the Roman settlement for centuries. It’s incredible to think that pieces of it still stand nearly 1,800 years later.

Across the street stands 10 Trinity Square, one of London’s grandest historic buildings. Completed in 1922 as the headquarters of the Port of London Authority, it overlooks the Tower of London and was designed in the Beaux-Arts style by Sir Edwin Cooper. During the Second World War, General Dwight D. Eisenhower used the building as his headquarters while planning the D-Day landings. Today it has been transformed into a luxury hotel and residences while still retaining much of its original grandeur.

The building is richly decorated with allegorical sculptures that celebrate Britain’s role as a global maritime nation during the height of the British Empire. Around the exterior are large stone figures representing the four continents that were traditionally recognized at the time—Europe, Asia, Africa, and the Americas. Each continent is portrayed with symbolic objects and clothing that reflected how those regions were viewed in the early 20th century. Europe represents learning, government, and commerce; Asia symbolizes trade, culture, and luxury goods such as silk and spices; Africa is depicted through symbols of its wildlife, natural resources, and exploration; while the Americas represent agriculture, industry, and opportunity. Interspersed among these figures are sculptures representing Navigation, Commerce, Industry, and Seafaring, honoring the sailors, dockworkers, merchants, and explorers who helped make the Port of London one of the busiest ports in the world.

What immediately caught my eye, however, were the spectacular bronze sculptures crowning the roof. Massive horses pulling chariots appear to burst dramatically from the corners of the building, as though racing into the sky above London. These powerful quadriga sculptures symbolize triumph, progress, and Britain’s mastery of the seas. They are impossible to miss and add an incredible sense of movement and grandeur to an already stunning piece of architecture. It was one of those unexpected buildings that made us stop, stare, and appreciate the artistry that surrounds you throughout London.

Nearby we also passed St. Bartholomew-the-Great, London’s oldest parish church, founded in 1123. Standing quietly among the busy city streets, it was another reminder that history is woven into nearly every block of London.

Soon we reached the Tower of London. Since Mom had toured it on a previous visit, she knew many of the towers and stairways would not be accessible for Kiya’s transport chair, so we chose to admire the historic fortress from the outside instead. Built by William the Conqueror beginning in 1066, the Tower has served as a royal palace, prison, treasury, mint, and armory. It has witnessed nearly a thousand years of English history, from royal coronations to famous imprisonments and executions.

We made our way to Tower Pier to catch another Uber Boat. While we were waiting, I noticed a traditional tall sailing ship making its way up the Thames. I turned to Mom and said, “They’re going to have to raise Tower Bridge.” Sure enough, within minutes the roadway slowly lifted to allow the ship to pass beneath. At almost the same time, a beautiful replica paddlewheel steamer approached from the opposite direction. Watching the bridge rise and lower was surprisingly peaceful. I expected grinding machinery and loud motors, but instead it moved almost silently and with remarkable grace.

We boarded our Uber Boat and cruised back to St. George Wharf Pier near Vauxhall.

Our apartment had been in a wonderful location. Vauxhall Bridge, completed in 1906, is one of London’s oldest road bridges crossing the Thames. It connects Westminster with the Vauxhall district and is decorated with large bronze statues representing arts, sciences, engineering, agriculture, architecture, and local government. Just across the river sits the headquarters of MI6, the United Kingdom’s Secret Intelligence Service. The distinctive green glass building has become famous through numerous James Bond films. We joked that we were probably staying in one of the safest neighborhoods in London with MI6 just across the street keeping an eye on everything!

That evening we repacked our suitcases one final time and prepared for the next stage of our adventure. The following morning we would board the Eurostar, traveling beneath the English Channel and leaving England behind as we headed for Amsterdam. It was hard to believe how quickly our time in London had passed, but we were excited to see what awaited us in the Netherlands.

Stonehenge, Salisbury Cathedral, and the Magna Carta

As I am typing this, we have entered both France and Belgium on our way to Amsterdam. Before leaving England, however, we experienced one of the highlights of our trip.

On July 3, we took the train to Salisbury to visit Stonehenge. What an incredible experience!

The bus from Salisbury to Stonehenge included a running commentary about the surrounding countryside, villages, archaeology, and local history. We arrived around 11:00 a.m. and decided to take the shuttle directly to the stones while there was still some cloud cover. In hindsight, I wish we had visited the exhibition first. Understanding the burial mounds, ceremonial landscape, and the relationship between the monuments would have made our first walk around the stones even more meaningful.

What amazed me most was that every step around the circle revealed a completely different perspective. The way the stones lined up, the changing views, and the relationship to the surrounding burial grounds continually changed. It never looked the same twice. We spent nearly an hour and a half simply walking around the monument, taking photographs, and soaking it all in. It was one of the most peaceful places we have visited. I also have to say—I absolutely love Apple’s new photo feature that lets you erase people from pictures. It made capturing the monument feel almost timeless.

Once we understood what we were looking at, we began spotting burial mounds everywhere across the landscape. Archaeologists believe Stonehenge was once part of an enormous ceremonial complex connected to the nearby River Avon by a processional avenue. Thousands of years ago, the river is believed to have flowed at a higher level than it does today, creating an important ceremonial route between the river and the monument.

The engineering behind Stonehenge is almost impossible to comprehend. Some of the smaller bluestones were transported nearly 150 miles (240 km) from the Preseli Hills of Wales, likely by water and then over land. The larger sarsen stones, weighing as much as 25 tons each, were hauled from about 15 miles away. Just imagining the planning, manpower, and determination required is mind-blowing.

Even more impressive were the stone-working techniques. Many of the stones were carefully shaped and smoothed. The builders carved tenons—rounded projections on top of the upright stones—that fit perfectly into matching mortisescarved into the lintels resting above them. The docents explained that these joints weren’t actually necessary to hold the stones together because of their tremendous weight. Instead, they demonstrate the builders’ incredible craftsmanship and desire to create a monument that would last for generations. To construct nearly perfect circles, stack stones so precisely, and align the monument with the movements of the sun during the solstices over 4,500 years ago is simply astonishing.

Inside the visitor centre, we learned even more about the surrounding landscape. The artifacts recovered from nearby burial mounds were incredible, especially the beautifully crafted gold objects buried with people thousands of years ago. It is remarkable to realize how sophisticated these ancient societies truly were. I’ll try to upload a short video from the exhibition that explains the wider archaeological landscape around Stonehenge.

After our visit, we took the bus back into Salisbury and walked through the historic town toward Salisbury Cathedral. Before going inside, we noticed several spotting scopes set up outside. A group of birdwatchers was watching the resident peregrine falcons. We were able to observe a sleepy male perched high on the cathedral tower.

The cathedral itself has become an important home for these magnificent birds. According to the cathedral, peregrine falcons have nested there since at least 1864. They disappeared for many decades because of persecution and the widespread use of pesticides such as DDT, but they have successfully returned and once again raise chicks on the cathedral’s famous spire.

Walking inside the cathedral was breathtaking. Built between 1220 and 1258, Salisbury Cathedral is considered one of the finest examples of Early English Gothic architecture. Unlike many medieval cathedrals that took centuries to complete, the main body of Salisbury Cathedral was built in just 38 years, giving it an unusually unified architectural style. Its soaring spire, completed in the 14th century, remains the tallest surviving medieval church spire in Britain at 404 feet (123 meters). The rib-vaulted ceilings, elegant pointed arches, cloisters, and beautiful Chapter House supported by a single Purbeck marble column are truly magnificent. Everywhere you look there is another incredible detail to admire.

Our final stop was to see one of the cathedral’s greatest treasures—one of only four surviving original copies of the Magna Carta. It is considered the best-preserved copy in existence.

Seeing it in person was unforgettable.

Photography isn’t allowed, so you enter a dimly lit semicircular room where the document rests safely behind glass. The writing is remarkably clear, incredibly neat, and unbelievably tiny. Looking at a document written more than 800 years ago that helped shape constitutional government throughout much of the world is difficult to put into words. I’ll include photographs showing how the other surviving copies compare, many of which are faded or much harder to read.

Standing there, I couldn’t help but reflect on just how young the United States—and especially Montana—really are. People throughout Europe are often amazed when we tell them Montana is only 136 years old. Here, buildings, monuments, and documents are measured not in decades but in centuries and even millennia. It certainly puts history into perspective.

After such an incredible day filled with ancient engineering, medieval architecture, and one of the world’s most important historical documents, we caught our train back to London and happily crashed at the apartment for the evening.

Stepping Back in Time at Godshill Model Village

Our final day on the Isle of Wight was spent in one of its most charming villages. We caught a taxi up to the Old Smithy Car Park in Godshill, where we met Alan, Pauline, and Jane—another Friendship Force member whom Aunt Jane had spent time with during her visit to the Isle of Wight last November. It was wonderful to see everyone again before continuing on to London.

Together we visited the delightful Godshill Model Village, one of the Isle of Wight’s most beloved attractions. Opened in 1952, the model village is a remarkably detailed 1:10 scale replica of Godshill and nearby Shanklin as they appeared in the 1920s and 1930s. Built by local craftsmen, the miniature village has continued to grow over the decades, with new buildings and scenes added as the real villages have changed. Every tiny cottage, church, garden, shop, and winding lane has been recreated with incredible attention to detail.

One of the things I appreciated most was the thoughtful design of the gardens. As you wandered from one section to another, carefully trimmed hedges, miniature trees, and flowering shrubs separated each area so you couldn’t immediately see the next scene. It made every turn feel like discovering something new. Tiny people, horses, vintage automobiles, shops, and homes brought the village to life, and Alan, Pauline, and Jane shared stories about many of the real buildings, local traditions, and games represented throughout the displays. Their stories added so much meaning to what we were seeing.

Alan and Pauline had told us the night before that the artist hired to make the caricatures of the people needed to stop being so accurate with the people and start making them a little less recognizable. No matter, she did an excellent job.

Perhaps the most entertaining surprise was discovering that inside the Model Village is… another Model Village! The designers have recreated the attraction itself in miniature, complete with tiny visitors looking at an even tinier version of the village. It’s a clever bit of humor that perfectly matches the whimsical spirit of the attraction.

After exploring, we enjoyed lunch together before strolling through the village of Godshill itself. The village is known for its picturesque cottages with traditional thatched roofs, many dating back several hundred years. I hadn’t expected to see so many thatched cottages, and they quickly became one of my favorite sights. Their thick straw roofs, colorful gardens, and winding lanes made it feel like stepping into the pages of a storybook.

Later that afternoon, Alan and Pauline drove us back to Cowes. After several busy days of sightseeing, the quiet evening was exactly what we needed. Kiya quickly curled up on the couch and fell asleep, Mom settled in with a good book, and I took one last walk around the waterfront, soaking in the atmosphere of this charming seaside town. As I wandered through the harbor one final time, I reflected on the incredible kindness and hospitality Alan, Pauline, and their friends had shown us during our stay.

That evening we packed our suitcases and prepared for the next chapter of our adventure—London.

Friendship Force, Flowers, and a Royal Estate

Our first evening on the Isle of Wight was a wonderful introduction to island life. Our Friendship Force hosts, Alan and Pauline, welcomed us into their home with incredible hospitality. Before we had even settled in, Alan made a quick trip to the grocery store to pick up bread, cereal, milk, butter, and other breakfast essentials so we would have everything we needed for the next morning. It was such a thoughtful gesture and made us feel right at home.

We made plans to meet Alan and Pauline the following afternoon at Osborne House, along with another Friendship Force friend, Sonja, who only had that afternoon available to visit with us. We let Kiya sleep in before setting off to explore the town. Since we were staying just two blocks from the main shopping street, we spent the morning wandering through the charming shops and enjoying the relaxed pace of the Isle of Wight.

Our only hiccup came when it was time to catch a taxi. We quickly discovered that our international phone plan wasn’t working, leaving us unable to call a taxi company. Most taxi stands simply displayed a phone number to arrange a pickup. After a bit of scrambling, I was finally able to download a local taxi app and request a ride. Unfortunately, we arrived at Osborne House nearly an hour later than planned, but we were determined to connect with Sonja since it was our only opportunity to spend time together.

After meeting up, we enjoyed lunch before touring the magnificent Osborne House. Built between 1845 and 1851, Osborne House was the beloved summer residence of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Designed in the style of an Italian Renaissance villa, it became the place where the royal family could escape the formality of court life and enjoy time together. Queen Victoria loved the estate so much that she famously wrote, “It is impossible to imagine a prettier spot.”

The estate is truly grand, surrounded by beautifully landscaped gardens and overlooking the Solent. What impressed me most was learning that much of what you see inside is original, giving visitors an authentic glimpse into royal family life during the Victorian era.

One of the most fascinating discoveries was that even the royal family made practical financial decisions while creating such an elegant home. Many of the grand marble columns and decorative features are actually expertly painted plaster designed to resemble expensive marble. The spectacular Durbar Room ceiling, with its intricate decorative work, was crafted from lightweight plaster of Paris rather than heavier materials to reduce the structural load on the building. Throughout the house are beautiful marble statues, but only one is genuine—the statue of Venus standing beneath a seashell canopy. The others are carefully crafted replicas. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert would visit museums such as the Louvre in Paris, select sculptures they admired, and commission high-quality reproductions for Osborne House. It was a fascinating reminder that beauty and practicality often went hand in hand, even in a royal residence.

After our tour, we returned to Alan and Pauline’s home for an incredible home-cooked dinner. We spent the evening visiting, laughing, and enjoying their beautiful backyard garden. The flowers were in full bloom, and I couldn’t resist taking dozens of photographs. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful day filled with history, friendship, and warm hospitality.

Before saying goodnight, we made plans for another adventure together the following day—a visit to the Isle of Wight’s famous Model Village.

This was her sons birthday present while in his teens.

Canals, Countryside, and Clarkson’s Farm

Our final full day with Alan and Moira was spent enjoying one of Britain’s most iconic experiences—a leisurely cruise on a narrowboat along the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Llangollen canal. Alan and Moira had rented the boat for the day, and we were joined by their son, Adrian, his daughter, Edie, and Eva, another granddaughter, making it a wonderful family outing.

Built by renowned engineer Thomas Telford and completed in 1805, the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is the highest navigable aqueduct in the world, standing 126 feet (38 meters) above the River Dee. Stretching over 1,000 feet long, it carries both narrowboats and pedestrians high above the valley below. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009 and is considered one of the greatest achievements of the Industrial Revolution.

It took a little while to get everyone aboard and go through the safety instructions, although Alan already knew how to operate a canal boat. Before long we encountered our first adventure—a true boat traffic jam! Canoe tours, boats returning to the marina, and our boat all trying to pass through the same narrow stretch created quite the bottleneck. We moored for a short while as everyone worked together to figure out the best way to maneuver around one another. There was plenty of smiling, waving, and patient waiting, reminding us that canal life moves at its own peaceful pace.

Once underway, the canal became incredibly tranquil. We slowly glided through the lush green countryside with birds singing overhead while ducks and graceful swans floated alongside us. It was easy to forget about schedules and simply enjoy the beauty surrounding us. Moira had packed a wonderful picnic lunch, which we enjoyed aboard as we drifted through the Welsh countryside.

After lunch, Mom and I walked across the magnificent Chirk Aqueduct, not realizing until we reached the opposite end that we had actually walked from Wales into England! The Chirk Aqueduct is a 70 foot (21 m) high and 710 foot (220 m) long navigable aqueduct that carries what is now the Llangollen Canal across the Ceiriog Valley near Chirk, on the England-Wales border, spanning two countries.

Standing on the narrow footpath with nothing but a railing separating us from the dramatic drop below was both exhilarating and unforgettable. The views across the valley were breathtaking, and I captured a couple of photographs that I already know will be framed when we get home.

We spent nearly six hours on the canal, from 10:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m., before cooling off with some well-earned ice cream. Afterward we returned to Alan and Moira’s home for dinner and spent the evening packing for the next leg of our adventure.

The following morning a hired driver picked us up for our journey from Manchester to Southampton. We had originally planned to travel by train, but engineering work had closed the line we needed. Our only rail option would have required traveling all the way to London before heading back south to Southampton, so hiring a driver made much more sense.

Since we were traveling by road, I asked if we could drive through the beautiful Cotswolds and stop at Diddly Squat Farm Shop, made famous by Jeremy Clarkson’s television series Clarkson’s Farm. The farm shop has become an unexpected tourist destination, selling produce and products made on the farm, including milk, cheese, honey, jams, sauces, beer, cider, and souvenirs. I wasn’t sure we would even make it into the parking lot, let alone inside the shop.

When we arrived, the queue stretched well beyond the entrance. I quickly realized there was no way we would get inside during the hour we had allowed. Our driver suggested speaking with the staff about Kiya’s wheelchair. After showing our Montana disability parking placard, they kindly allowed us to enter through the accessible queue. We were incredibly grateful for their understanding.

While waiting inside, a young man—probably around 18 or 20 years old—stood in front of me with an armful of products. He had grabbed nearly one of everything: milk, cheese, pasta sauce, crisps, and more. At one point he apologized for taking so long. I smiled and told him, “No need to apologize. You may only get here once, so make the most of it.” His excitement was contagious, and it perfectly captured how special the experience felt for so many visitors. We picked up a few souvenirs, snapped some photos, and continued our journey.

Along the drive we also passed through the historic city of Oxford, home to the world-famous University of Oxford, whose colleges have educated scholars, scientists, writers, and world leaders for nearly a thousand years. Even from the car, the city’s beautiful stone buildings and historic architecture were impressive.

We arrived in Southampton with plenty of time to grab a coffee and relax before boarding the ferry. Soon we were crossing the Solent toward the Isle of Wight, excited to begin another chapter of our adventure.